An ambassador’s return, Chianti Classico Collection 2022, 4 LCBO videos, 11 UGAs, 37 estate visits and 450 tasting notes

The story of two hats

The last pre-pandemic supper in Panzano takes place in the Officina della Bistec at Dario Cecchini’s Anti Macelleria Restaurant on the 19th of February, 2020. Little could any one of the revelers that night have any inclination what lay ahead. Who could foresee less than a week later there would be a sablan-esque slipping out of Faenza in the middle of the night, heading to Firenze for a flight out of Italy before first light. A funny thing happens in between. Tutti Matti Chef Alida Solomon from Toronto is already feasting at the long Bistec harvest table when the party nadese arrives. A wonderful surprise save for the fact that Tusny is actually her home. That night the writer surreptitiously leave his Sienese ppella in the officina and the next day no one at Cecchini is able lote it. Hat vanishing act. On route to Montalcino a necessary stop is made in Siena, specifilly the Piazza del mpo, for a Spritz and the purchase of a new hat. Borsalino is closed so ppelleria Bertacchi is the next best option and a brand new, similarly styled hat is procured. The following day, while sitting upstairs tasting Brunello on the terrazza of ffè La Fortezza in Montalcino who walks in but Solomon, tosses up the aforementioned and abandoned hat, nothing is spoken and away Chef goes. This is the story of being the owner of two hats.

A prodigal ambasciatore‘s return

This may be considered an inflated way to refer to one’s self in the third person but truth is that third person recounts with the fondest of memories 10 pre-pandemic Tusn excursions in four years before the world shuts down to travel. The restart launches in October 2021 with the first of four more over the course of six ’21-’22 abridging months. There are extroverts and introverts but there are also ambiverts, those who exhibit tendencies in roughly equal proportions. Some are in the middle or on the fence when it comes to Chianti Classico wines. If one is to refer to oneself as a proud ambassador for said wines then there must be synergistic feelings of belonging. There will be connectivity with the wines, territory and a most profound connection with the people. In October of 2021 a rebirth takes place in the guise of travel renascence, a re-entry for the first time in 20 months made available by the most erudite, generous and hospitable folks at Gambero Rosso. An ambassador who sits not on a fence has zero trepidation in making a decision to fly first to Firenze for three days of arranged visits in the Classico zone to precede the Tre Bicchieri’s festivities in Rome. When a month later a special edition of Benvenuto Brunello is organized it makes super sense to follow that up with three more days of visits in the territory shared by Firenze and Siena. To see great Consorzio friends and colleagues again restores faith in this world. r rides, lunches, dinners, tank, barrel, latest release and archived tastings, ffès and chats in the sun. Grazie tantissimo to Giovanni Manetti, rlotta Gori, Silvia Fiorentini, Christine Lechner and terina Mori, as always, sempre e per sempre.

Related – Chianti Classico goes to eleven

The UGA designation, LCBO videos and continuing Chianti Classico edution

In June of 2021 the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico announces the shift to 11 additional units of geographil designation to rve out new parameters and progressiveness for the territory. These ùnita Geografiche?Aggiuntive allow producers to make mention on labels of Gran Selezione wines. A first step towards full disclosure across all Chianti Classico wine labels in the future. This information comes to the writer on the heels of keeping busy during lockdowns and pandemic restrictions that sees the proliferation of tastings and edution via platforms like Zoom. Connecting producers with sommeliers and prospective agents is key to continuity and Godello obliges whenever the ll to duty arrives. The return in person late in 2021 and through the first four months of 2022 sees restaurant edution sessions reach dozens upon dozens of sommeliers, front of house and back of house staff, denizens of Toronto’s restaurant industry eager to resume their absorption of wine information, especially as it pertains to tasting sangiovese. The filming of four edutional videos for the LCBO is particularly gratifying, pped by a win of an LCBO Elsie Award for said videos. In three weeks time the producers will arrive in Toronto to participate in the WineAlign critic and Ambasciatore‘s Masterclass. They will also pour their wines at both trade and consumer walk-around tastings. The Toronto Island Chianti Classico Cup happens on Tuesday, May 31, 2022 and “Experience the Wine, Olive Oil & Food of Chianti Classico,” Monday, May 30, 2022 at The Globe and Mail Centre.” Click on the link for more information. Forever in Chianti Classico, even while at home.

End of season reaction to the April frost of 2021

For Lu Martini di Cigala of San Giusto a Rentannano the first vintage when he realized something was not right was 1998, when the skin of the berries were burned by the sun. Climate change, events and extremes are not something that just popper up in the past few years.?

Paolo de Marchi does not so much look at yields before high density but rather yields that are a quotient of each square metre as a function of bunches per plant. In a frost year like 2021 Guyot produces more fruit from secondary buds. Paolo makes use of a selection of clones but more importantly a massal vineyard. “This is how you get rid of vines that are not good and replite those that are. Bud break is often so early and we will never espe the frost anymore. The real problem starts with earlier winter and Spring.”

At sa Emma Paolo Paffi admits to a 35 per cent loss in 2021 due to the April frosts, a vintage when even problems occurred even in the higher reaches. “You would have to go back to 1995 to find another vintage where this happened,” tells Paffi. At Villa Le Corti Principe Duccio Corisini and Oenologist Claudio Giglioni noted that in 2021 the single vineyard Guliae, nicknamed the Figo, produced seven tonnes per hectare. It remained safe from the frost, perhaps beuse of biodynamics, perhaps beuse of Guyot training, perhaps beuse of position. Maybe all three but regardless it was not ught in the April frost zone.

At Il Molino di Grace in Panzano their particular frost zone resulted in a 50 per cent reduction in yields.? There was a good quantity of water in the winter, a cool spring, warm and ideal summer, rain in the second half of August. “A perfect situation for quality and quantity,”? had the frosts not come. Says Iacopo Morganti, “we need to build artificial lakes.”

Related – When frost strikes, Chianti Classico?responds

Fontodi and Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti owns over 20 hectares of over 40 years. He explains that even if there are 20-30 days separating the picking from start to finish in a vintage there is always a marker, especially with sangiovese. “And with old vines they are not nearly as susceptible to stressors,” says Manetti. “Vigna del Sorbo will succeed even with all of what is mentioned here.” At Bindi Sergardi I Colli is where Alessandra sini Bindi Sergardi was born and grew up. Built in the 1400s for the family, lower in elevation (350m) as compared to Mocenni (500m), still rich in Alberese but also high in iron content across the road in the Chianti Colli Senesi. Some frost kill but not signifint enough to mention. For Angela Fronti of Istine, “this year 20-25 per cent less, part frost and part cinghiale, qualcosa nell-aia.” Something in the yard.

Roberto Bianchi of Val delle Corti: “It’s been a difficult year and we’re very lucky to be in Radda. We did not fear the frost. Most Radda producers esped loss due to frost but the animals are another matter all together. Drought pushes the animals (wild boar, deer the size of cows), out of the forest and grapes are there biggest resource recourse.” Bianchi is still looking higher and a few years ago planted Malpensa Vineyard upwards of 650m. As did Fedecri Mascheroni of Volpaia. Their new vineyard is planted at 650m, using five clones of sangiovese from Il Puro with two chosen for planting as half of the small (one hectare vineyard) and also malvasia and trebbiano for Vinsanto. It was finished in the Spring of 2021.

What about naiolo?

“naiolo is an underestimated variety,” insists Isole e Olena’s Paolo de Marchi. “It ripened so early this (2021) season and was picked before the chardonnay. It just may be the future” While that may sound like sacrilege in a land where sangiovese is the (literal) life blood of the wines, de Marchi is not the only one focusing extra energy on the endemic variety. L’Erta di Radda’s Diego Finocchi sees naiolo as essential to blending into sangiovese beuse of its higher level of pH, a talyst for balancing not only the high acidity of sangiovese but also helping to temper and even hide alcohol in warm and dry vintages. Both Robin Mugnaini and Claudio Gozzi of Fattoria le Masse would surety agree. Their Timeo is a 100 per cent naiolo from 60 year-old vines (planted in 1961), picked in late September but before the hottest final days. A wine that is truly a matter of pH waving over the palate.

Angela Fronti of Istine in Radda has planted some naiolo and malvasia nera, the latter replacing bernet to return to roots and grow what is meant for this part of the territory. Salt and pepper if you will also to have more diversity going forward into the ever-changing climate change unknown. naiolo is more vigorous and so n add some good balance, both more quantity and for freshness in warmer vintages. At San Giusto a Rentennano 15 of 30 hectares are on tufo soil, not exactly volnic but the left over from a receding ocean that left a mix of sand and pebbles of six or so inches over a bank of clay. This plus many large fossil shells makes for sangiovese of medium hue, specific mineral saltiness and a very specific Chianti Classico profile. naiolo is not a factor here.

Old is the new agriculture?

There was a profound and at time controversial but always enlightening discussion with Monte Bernardi’s Michael Schmelzer. Michael talked of green harvest, rootstocks, Pietraforte, whole bunch fermentation and instincts. Standing in his Retromarcia Vineyard on a cool but perfectly blue mid-November day I asked him about climate change and what needs to be done about it. n’t say his answers were what I expected. He began with the concept of dropping fruit. “We haven’t dropped since 2007.? We have to think like the old farmers thought. The new way was to have you reduce fruit to make better wine. It’s like losing nutrients in the ground. I look at the wine bunches as on a sle, they’re not unripe, they’re just less ripe. They help me come up to 55 quintali per hectare. I still get acidity and sapidity. For me the concept should be re-examined and re-thought. I look at everything as an asset. You should be using your fruit. What other industry drops 30 per cent of their produce? We should be seeing 30-35 year-old vineyards going to 50-55 years. Overall we’ve lost more than we have gained.”

Schmelzer continues onto the idea of choosing 110 Richter, instead of the commonly used 420A rootstock, showing how internodes should be the size of a fist and nes as pencil thinness or bigger. “People are compromising beuse they’ve chosen the wrong rootstocks,” he explains. “Granted we’re picking earlier than before but mid to late September is not extreme. We haven’t seen anything yet.”

“The only thing I don’t like is people telling me how to make my Riserva,” are the words of a winemaker who has seen his fair share of rejection. Perhaps I encourage the minor rant beuse there are two sides to every story. Maybe it’s the fault (or the advantage, depending on your perspective) of the rocks. “Brenna Quigley (Napa Geologist) me and made a study of all the famous soils of Chianti Classico and Monte Bernardi was identified as the plot with the hardest Pietraforte of all.” Sa’Etta Vineyard was planted in 1968, now 53 years old (similar to both Monte Bernardi and Tzingana) and trained in double (doppio) Guyot. For stello di Monsanto’s Laura Bianchi the constant posit tug is Guyot vs Sperrone and both exist in a vacuum where necessity is the mother of invention.?

In terms of stems Schmelzer’s decisions are essentially instinctual, like that of a cook. “I don’t look at numbers. I feel as a winemaker it’s important to free yourself from technilities and use your instincts. If you follow numbers you will always make a mistake that has to be later corrected.” As for barrel use, “if there is wood in a wine I want it to be so subtle. (Again) thinking like a cook. I’ve more stems, for longer, in post and of course also during maceration. Natural tannins come from the stems in that post-maceration state.” The conclusion lies in how stems are talysts for the polymerization of tannin, without a trace of humidity. Completely secco.

Nowhere is the “old is the new agriculture” refrain spoken with greater clarity than in the Greve frazione and newly minted UGA of Lamole. The spectacular amphitheatre is home to high elevation vineyards of a particular geology where Macigno del Chianti, schist and marl gift a most specific perfume to the sangiovese. Lamole is home to I Fabbri, Lamole di Lamole, Podere stellinuzza, stellinuzza e Piu, Le Masse Di Lamole and stello di Lamole. The UGA also houses one of Chianti Classico’s most famous vineyards, Paolo Cocci’s Vigna Grospoli Antico Lamole, from which several producers have rented fruit to make über-Lamole scented wines. Still others are looking to the frazione to expand on their portfolios, including Podere Poggio Slette (of Jurij Fiore) and Querciabella from the Ruffoli hill in Greve. It is well known that Fontodi’s Giovanni Manetti produces Filetta di Lamole from his cousin’s vineyard but the latest project will take Lamole to an entirely new and different level. Manetti’s new plantation on Macigno di Marne, a wholly singular marine sandstone geology, will be a game changer.

Estate visits, the Chianti Classico Collection and Il Chianti Classico in 9 Dedi

This is the author’s most comprehensive Chianti Classico report to date. Nearly half of the wines chosen to taste were Annata and this is beuse there were numerous opportunities during estate visits to rell “lost” vintages as a result of the pandemic, along with the newer 2020s and 2019s presented at the collection. In February 2020 the Ambassador Ad Honorem from nada organizes and acts as chaperone to nine compatriots (plus one favolosa Amerina) for five days of exploration throughout the 11 UGAs of the area. sa Chianti Classico, President Manetti, the Consorzio and the producers host La Squadra nadese of sommeliers; John Szabo MS, Nadia Fournier, Scott Zebarth, Kristi Linneboe, Joris Garcia, roline Beaulieu, Hannah Egan-Lee, Natalie Pope and Paige McIntyre. A memorable trip. A month later on day two of the Chianti Classico Collection a masterclass is presented by Italian wine expert Filippo Bartolotta and Consorzio President Giovanni Manetti titled Il Chianti Classico in 9 Dedi. Chianti Classico wines dating back to 1949 are poured during a most fascinating presentation and study, replete with historil images on screen depicting politil, religious, cinematic, pop cultural, artistic and iconic scenes of Italian heritage, civilization and society. There are moments of white grapes mixing with their counterpart reds, old wines gifting scents and textures as if by Vin Santo and others so clearly a product of when they were made. That the wines show incredibly well owes to the longevity of sangiovese and its perseverance in the poise of Chianti Classico. More on this tasting will be shared through a separate article in the coming days.

Over the course of the four trips to the region in October, November, February and March, 34 estates are visited; Bindi Sergardi, ntalici, sa Emma, rpineta Fontalpino, stell’In Villa, stello di Monsanto, stello di Radda, stello di Volpaia, Cigliano di Sopra, Fattoria dell’Aiola, Fattoria Le Masse, Fattoria di Pomona, Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano,?Fontodi, I Fabbri, Il Molino di Grace, Il Palagio di Panzano, Isole e Olena, Istine, La Sala, Le Fonti di Panzano, L’Erta di Radda, Monte Bernardi, Montelvi, Podere paccia, Quercia al Poggio, Querciabella, Roc delle Macìe, Roc di Montegrossi, San Felice, Tenuta di rleone, Val delle Corti, Villa lcinaia – Conti pponi and Villa Le Corti – Principe Corsini. During the coming weeks further reports in greater detail will appear on Godello concerning several of these visits.

Over two days at the 2022 Chianti Classico Collection more than 650 different wines from 180 gallo nero estates are made available to journalists and trade; 364 Annata, 161 Riserva and 125 Gran Selezione, along with 39 barrel samples from the 2021 vintage. Sales of Chianti Classico wines continue on an upwards steady trend. In 2021 the growth is plus-21 per cent versus 2020 and plus-11 relative to 2019. Through February of 2022 the increase is plus-seven per cent over the same time period of 2021. Grape prices are up 20 per cent, the United States holds strong at 33 per cent sales while nada sits in third place with their 10 per cent share. A prediction towards 11 per cent by the end of 2022 holds strong. The great emergence is South Korea where sales have doubled and quadrupled relative to 2020 and 2021. Not surprising Seoul-based journalist Jung Yong Cho becomes the latest appointee as Chianti Classico Ambassador for 2022.

The structure of the tasting notes remains consistent in terms of running through the three appellative levels but here for the first time each listing includes a mention of the associated UGA. Without attempting to review wines that would result in equal footing there is a good level of equanimity in that all 11 UGAs are well documented. The following 450 tasting notes are broken down as follows: stellina (48); stelnuovo Berardenga (32); Gaiole (59); Greve (30); Lamole (18); Montefioralle (10); Panzano (39); Radda (55); San sciano (28); San Donato in Poggio (34); Vagliagli (25) and IGTs (72). By appellation the number of reviews are: Chianti Classico (201); Chianti Classico Riserva (113) and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (59). By vintage the breakdown is Chianti Classico 2020 (46); CC2019 (110); CC2018 (24); Older vintages (20). Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 (15); CCR2018 (45); CCR2017 (10); CCR2016 (10), Older vintages (33). Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019 (2); CCGS18 (24); CCGS17 (12); CCGS16 (13); Older vintages (9). Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (7). Finally there are sangiovese from 137 estates reviewed in this report, the largest number covered to date.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Arillo In Terrabian Chianti Classico DOCG Sacello 2020

Radda

Open and fragrant, south Raddese acidity on display, light and breezy with no oak interference whatsoever. Sacello in lolità Terrabian is a sangiovese joy to sip, so long as someone else is lifting the heavy bottle and pouring your glass. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

stellina

Banfi is another semi-closed and reductive 2020, not uncommon for the vintage and also surely used in part by just how little time the wine has been in bottle. Cherry fruit and the mild bitterness of the pit dominate the aromas (at this early stage) while texture is pectin and glycerin, strawberry smoothie and a few drops of blood orange bitters. Not getting a real sense of lotion, perhaps herbal like Gaiole and red fruit centric like stellina though savoury as if by San sciano. Take your pick. Regardless of vineyard place this is so very sangiovese, acids et al. Drink 2023-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Bertinga Chianti Classico DOCG La Porta Di Vertine 2020

Gaiole

Gaiole savour in all its woods and brush comes clear into aromatics and view through this ’19 Annata, almost vividly so. Deep well of varietal fruit, über sangiovese but more so Gaiole. Good and sweet ’19 tannins are plentiful and there is some green astringency as they pass over the palate. Wait a year and then drink for two more after that. Drink 2023-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

stellina

Bibbiano’s is at the forefront of youthfulness in that there is a closed aromatic launch and some reduction needing to blow off before the hounds of charm n be released. Head straight to the palate to be graced with the interspersions of texture and structure, first liquid stellina chalky, then wound around the body of this wine. Sangiovese needs the bottle and with eyes closed those words of Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi play in refrain over and over again. Be patient and kind to his wine and in turn you will be kindly rewarded. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted March 2022

Brania Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Radda and stellina

Brania 2020 takes the torch from 2019 in so many ways and then again, not in every way. Same fruit exposition and multi-site expression but deep and soulful for 2020, as opposed to bright and airy. More texture and crunch in 2020 while also finest of fine acids. A bigger wine and yet things travel consistently from one vintage through to the next. The new era continues for Barbara Widmer and team. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted March 2022

ntine Guidi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

San Donato in Poggio

From Poggibonsi and a 2020 showing stewed fruit and oxidation. Tasted from two bottles, each showing the same problematic notes.? Tasted March 2022

rpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Greve

rpineto’s Greve sangiovese is both unmistakable and akin to wines from another time, of thyme and incense, acids and innocence. You might swear this wine is wearing bell bottoms and preaching about peace and love. Love for the territory and especially the land underfoot. This smells like things that grow, of herbs and tea, resins and saps. Light and with a fluid glycerol feel. Lovely and herbal vintage for the Zaccheo team. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

sa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

San Donato in Poggio

Distinctly sa Emma from their corner of San Donato in Poggio though a bit deeper and darker of a blood orange sanguinity in 2020. Not the lightest or brightest vintage interpretation and really quite smooth, round, even lower in acid. One bottle shows this lm quality and surprising ease but a second bottle exhibits more acid, sharpness and clarity. Still there is a density of fruit and settling that’s a bit inconsistent with previous vintages while the tannins do take charge at the finish. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

stagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

stellina

A reminder that Jacopo di Battista is sitting on one of the most striking properties and vineyard at elevation in stellina so proximate to both Radda and Panzano. Here a striking Annata, sharp and also weighty, reductive behind which florals clearly lurk. Rich, luxurious even and with sour acids that infiltrate the drupe. Lots going on here and surely needs tome to settle in. Strange perhaps, misunderstood to a degree and yet all will fall into place. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

stellare Di stellina Chianti Classico DOCG stellare 2020

stellina

Dusty, high acid, crunchy and lightly acetic sangiovese, not unusual for stellina and stellare, especially when the wine is so young. Tart is the understatement and tight the over, while some sweetness in the structure indites there will be some fine push pull moments not too far way. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

stelli Del Grevepesa stelgreve Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

San sciano

From the cooperative in San sciano and their stelgreve label, new and improved and a darker if more extracted version for the vintage. Not so much the light and bright example but one extracted, juicy, variegated of several points of acidities and really quite dense in texture. Gravity has a gain on stelgreve and this will drink earlier than many. A touch of green and grey is already showing. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

stelli Del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

San sciano

The San sciano cooperative’s knowable and most recognizable bottle is this Clemente VII, who incidentally was Giulio Zanobi di Giuliano de’ Medici, head of the tholic Church and ruler of the Papal States from November 19, 1523 until his death on September 25, 1534. The wine has not been made quite that long but it is one of the territory’s elder sangiovese statesmen and the 2020 version is a heady and fulsome one indeed. Higher in alcohol than some, concentrated to the fullest extent of the year (and Papal law if you like) with silky texture and sour acids. Classic really. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

stello Di Ama Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Gaiole

A sign of the vintage is at first the declared alcohol (13.5 per cent) but also more than that a dichotomous relationship between lightness of actionability and creeping structural accountability. stello di Ama’s Gaiole sangiovese exhibits these push-pull traits with both dictionary and thesaurus reality. A chiaroscuro Chianti Classico if ever there was, dappling of light against a darker shaded background, fruit swelling in the foreground with chalky grains liquifying throughout and behind. Time is essential and this wine has plenty of time. Drink 2023-2028.? Tasted March 2022

stello Di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Gaiole

Moving from strength to strength here we arrive at 2020 with a fruit-centric stello di Meleto although like many recently bottled of the vintage there is some reduction to blow through. That said there is a depth to Meleto’s ’20 that holds attention for quite a stretch of time. Full and with palpable intensity in a desirably structured sangiovese. Also recognizable as Gaiole in origin, in a nutshell and so exemplary for the UGA. The clarity and understanding of changes are more than evident. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

stello Di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Greve

No shocker that stello di Querceto’s Dudda Valley lotion has produced a light and open-knit sangiovese from the less than round 2020 vintage. Like many others however there is a sly and crafty set of structural circumstances happening and running through this low alcohol (13 per cent declared) wine. Dare it be said old-school Chianti Classico but with modern clarity and charm. Could drink this every day of the week. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted March 2022

stello di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG San Jacopo 2020

Greve

San Jacopo is a Vicchiomaggio understudy, staying at the ready to step in, an Annata that knows all the parts and lines of the estate with it’s range of lead wines. This is straightforward and sure as sangiovese Annata, sturdy, solid and playing a perfectly reasonable support role. Well seasoned but never a wood-driven wine, salt and pepper got just right. The appetizer. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

stello di Vicchiomaggio Chianti Clasico DOCG Guado Alto 2020

Greve

Guado and Alto, meaning “a shallow crossing-place in a river” and “high” which seems like an oxymoron but allow me to explain. This second and arguably more important of two Annata by Vicchiomaggio is an über fresh one, lightly rbonic and juicy as a medieval quench from the Greve River. Tart and pulsating, oddly reminding me of poulsard. All this to mean Guado Alto is high-toned while creating a horizontal stretch of Chianti Classico openness.? Drink 2022-2024. Tasted March 2022

stello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Radda

Freshness inrnate exudes from Volpaia’s 2020 Annata and in fact the wine seems like it has barely achieved its alcohol and malolactic fermentation. In fact at a realistilly labeled 13.5 per cent this from Radda is as beautiful and honest as it gets. Modern as well, stylish, of great attitude and delicious. The Raddese acidity is of course present and accounted for but that fruit. My. Oh My. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

stello La Leccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

stellina

stello La Leccia’s stellina lotion close to Macìe is northerly yet halfway between Lilliano and Fonterutoli. Certainly a Galestro soil happenstance and with 2020 that geology stands out. Classic and that is meant with the most complimentary commune and UGA commentary, blessed by perfectly lol, parochial and conventional wisdom. Red to hematic blueing and blackening fruit, quite firm and grippy, tart, nearly searing and really driven. Needs time and when it arrives should persist for three to five proper drinking years. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

stello Monterinaldi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Radda

No other 2020 seems to scent like this from Monterinaldi and so it is more than worth commenting on the sense of place that is their southwestern Radda lotion. Herbal and dried flower potpourri but also something unknowable, intangible, even mysterious. Yes there is some early reduction but it n’t suppress the open-air meets underbrush perfume. Equanimity between maceration and fermentation makes this a ndidate for top mid-term aging Annata, in other words begin drinking soon and make great use for three to four years thereafter. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Colombaio Di Cencio Chianti Classico DOCG Monticello 2020

Gaiole

Colombaio di Cencio presents a Gaiole herbology that’s always inditive and distinctive, sometimes by way of faintly sweet Amaro liqueur. That’s the first and then recurring feeling coming from this 2020, chalky and with acids that slide along with the red fruit speckled with fresh and also dried herbs. The tannins follow the latter with some pretty austere aridity. This will drink well in a few years, that much is certain, but unfortunately the bottle will not get any lighter. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted March 2022

Famiglia Nunzi Conti Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

San sciano

So young and impressionable, hematic, red blood of sangiovese while fresh, nervy and exciting. Also deep and concerned, dusty brood of San sciano fruit, sottosuolo and fully nuanced earthy flavours. Big, big wine that needs to be looked at again a year forward beuse the youthfulness distracts from the potential. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

San sciano

The emergence of 2020 is real, right now and while who knows for how long going forward, perhaps with luck and fortuitous execution, the suiting could be seemingly forever. What transpires here is nothing short of an epiphany and even perhaps a Chianti Classico miracle. How the most precociousness and hard work n conspire to make such a beautiful wine is beyond comprehension. But it does not matter beuse it has happened. Grande Maddalena. Bravo Matteo.? Last tasted March 2022

Will be bottled in December so essentially a finished wine. From 10 plots (of 11, one is merlot) facing southeast to southwest. Includes a small part of Vigneto Bran, the name of the fattoria and of who was working there. Here the fifth vintage for Matteo Vacri and Maddalena Fucile is not only mature from a perspective of energy but also both succulence and sapidity that comes from changes, risks and learning what is possible. A bit oaky at this time but really showing what all these plots n effect, with solo sangiovese. No longer about precociousness but instead two winemakers who have arrived. “We don’t re about perfect phenolic maturity,” explains Vacri, “when we feel the bitterness is gone, the tannins are good, then let’s extract.” Extract away young phenoms. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted November 2021

Fattoria Di Luiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

San sciano

Classico San sciano as a notion of fresh and aromatic hillside reality, a purity of lolized perpetuity through a glass of light and shadow, dappling, chiaroscuro. Wood creaming the red to black cherry, swirling, making it gelid. Stylish sangiovese in every respect, suave and instructive. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Fattoria Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2020

Radda

Piero Lanza’s 2020 is a bright, effusive and luminescent version of itself in that there seems to be a lightness of being and avoidance of rich density. Quite the aromatic lift this early and time around, floral, like roses, hibiscus and fresh tar, not unlike some Tortonian raised nebbiolo. As sangiovese there is sneaky structure in quantifiably knowable admonition and that is said in the most complimentary of ways. Radda chalk, sand and whole bunch verdancy bring complexities and the struggle is real. Disregard the appellative concept of Annata in part, beuse this should go long. Drink 2024-2029.? Tasted March 2022

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

stelnuovo Berardenga

Notably dusty and structured right of the top, feeling the wide open stelnuovo airiness, sunshine and tart red fruit substantiality. Poised and restrained by extraction and pressing yet the Annata is a very taut and tight wine when assessed this young. Fèlsina always needs time and 2020 is far from the exception to that rule. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted March 2022

I Collazzi I Bastioni Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

San sciano

Dark if high-toned sangiovese, not atypilly San sciano with first a musky note. Rich and filled with wood salve, creamy and textured, liquid chalky and sweetly tannic. Early signs of soy and tar so drink this early before the fruit turns to earth and mulch. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Radda and Gaiole

Just bottled last week, One hundred per cent sangiovese, “a wine to be drinkable,” insists Angela Fronti, “like my grandfather did in the past, at lunch.” A wine of freshness and acidity but also one that n age 10-12 years. Istine was planted in 2000, varchione in 2010 and sanova dell’Aia just a few years ago. All contribute to this Annata and all play a prominent role. If a bit (bottle) shocky no matter beuse Fronti, whether by purpose or promise manages to coax the best of all her fruit sources. What is showing early is this sort of herbaceous bernet franc in sangiovese reality character, fleeting for sure and soon to come into a beautiful place. A reminder that 2020 was THE Covid vintage and so Angela was able to spend every waking moment with her vineyards and the season was neither hot nor cold but just perfectly somewhere in between. Drink 2023-2027.? ?Tasted February 2022

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Radda

From a sample labeled mpione da botte, in other words a tank sample. Freshness abounds, Radda style, from the breath of the woods, the cool of the stones and the rise of the hills. Herbal like fresh Genovese basil, spicy that way with a hint of anise and cinnamon. A co-fermentation of sangiovese and naiolo (five per cent), the latter adding le forma, volume and expansione, all of which are self-explanatory. An opposite of linearity, not roundness but a sapid expanse across the palate and in the mouth. This is the harmony pulled and coaxed from the ’20 Annata in a wine that makes you feel but more importantly exists by the dint of how it feels. Full. Not yet bottled but will be soon and truth is while the wine is tight the aromatics and mouthfeel are good to go. Worth a full review. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

Maurizio Brogioni Chianti Classico DOCG H’Amorosa 2020

Greve

H’Amarosa as in “a love affair” or perhaps “I have a lover,” which could be sangiovese, perhaps Greve in Chianti or in a more broader sense, Chianti Classico. n’t help but think about Jackson Browne, ballads, a splash of merlot and what’s happening these days. In 2020 that would be truth, openness and clarity with respect to the wines which are the storytelling by the producers. Brogioni’s is forthright, specific, real and for everyman. Juicy and in touch with both reality but also emotions. “I had a lover, I don’t think I’d risk another these days, these days.” Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Retromarcia 2020

Panzano

Michael Schmelzer’s 2020 takes up right where everything he had been working on and through in 2019 left off. That is to say full on agricultural indemnity with all fruit all the time in use and winemaking that is afraid of nothing. The silky swarthiness of his ’20 Retromarcia endorsement and structural surety combine for freedom, exception and security. This Retromarcia ushers fruit in waves, oscillations, acetic sweeps and swells, coming at the palate with the full force of laws provided by nature. What happens at Monte Bernardi stays at Monte Bernardi, where lculated inventiveness experiences living life on the edge. Drink 2023-2028.? Tasted March 2022

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Radda

Monteraponi from Michele Braganti breathes in the high elevation Radda air and exhales with clarity, not to mention exclusivity. Yet another reductive 2020, albeit mildly so and not difficult to coax out of its savoury ndied shell. While tart and even intense there is something mysterious and shadowy in the recesses of this sangiovese’s temperament and intelligence. Something guarded and misunderstood but time will make it all work out right. Keep this away and allow it to soften as it slowly gets to know you. Drink 2024-2029.? Tasted March 2022

Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Gaiole

A baritone beginning, low held Gaiole notes below with red to black fruit above. Not closed yet not expressive or generous either, reticent even and holding out beuse the tannins are in charge. Fruit quality and fleshiness are substantial, as is the wood and so the malic, creamy and sheathing sensation will need to settle before integration opens up the wine. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Podere stellinuzza Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Lamole

Roc Delle Macìe Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

stellina

Incorporates five per cent merlot into the sangiovese, the grapes coming from all four Roc delle Macìe estates. Essential, consistent and knowable for stellina and especially a style that is unwavering as Roc delle Macìe. A wine of layered commune earth, deep and even a bit brooding, so very sangiovese and with real Annata depth. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Roc Di stagnoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Gaiole

Young, taut, impressionable, high-toned and bright red fruit Gaiole Annata, rich in 2020 polyphenols and thiols, quite vibrant and intense. Less herbal than many of its lole and even past iterations of itself while the fruit concentrates and works through the earliest stages of its youth. Fine and meshing the way Annata should and offering beauty above all else. Will drink at peak next year and for four after that. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

Roc Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

Gaiole

Always 90 per cent sangiovese, here with (8) naiolo and (2) colorino. “Quite a regular growing season, warm but never too much,” says Marco Risoli, “and very cool nights.” The main character is first colour in a Classico never stressed by heat and so fruit freshens, with acidity sure to follow. A crunchy Annata, not too hard and not too soft. Picked in the last week of September, late enough for full maturity. Monti (in Gaiole) is a warmer area and while the alcohol checks in at 14 per cent it’s a well-managed and balanced wine all the way through. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Ruffino Chianti Classico DOCG Santedame 2020

stellina

Always a different and purposefully designed Annata from Ruffino, so very cherry liqueur, thickened by soil chalk in liquid varietal form. Here sangiovese with help from smoothing international varieties makes for a consistency of Chianti Classico to draw a crowd. Just a bit reductive and hypo-fresh, tart and sour-edged. Not edgy though and smooth as silk. Very professional wine and a good vintage from which to make that happen. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

stelnuovo Berardenga

A blend of sangiovese, pugnitello and colorino, the same dating back to 2009. Yet another warm vintage though with great changes in agricultural practices this Annata now shows great juicy freshness, especially from 2019 and now through this 2020. The acidity is more than maintained, the wood kept well in the back and this is just up front, accessible and on point. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Tenuta Di mpomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG mpomaggio 2020

Radda

Terra Di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2020

stelnuovo Beradenga

From stelnuovo Beradenga and the Pellegrini farm where the wines are constructed with strict adherence to Glatt Kosher rules. Tart and chewy red fruit with a toasted and roasted quality, in other words cooked but with a light touch and sense of sangiovese gastronomy. As fas as Kosher for Passover wines are considered this Terra di Seta should reside at the top of anyone’s list. As for Chianti Classico it is real and exemplary of place albeit needing food alongside to tame the tannins and prepared food quality of the wine. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2020

stelnuovo Berardenga

Vallenuovo from stelnuovo Berardenga’s Tolaini is an extracted, generously macerated and humorously concentrated 2020. There is just something about Tolaini, an aromatic potpourri specific to this wine in great hyperbole. A bit reductive as many are so early in this vessel and yet agitation really does release the charm. A really well constructed Chianti Classico that will appeal to those who look for fullness, especially through the texture and the finish. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted March 2022

Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Azienda Agricola Mori Concetta Chianti Classico Morino DOCG 2019

San sciano

Purely, expressly and properly San sciano, structured woolly and snugly wrapped around fruit kept warm and nurtured in a blanket of re. Fragrant with fine tannins, “legno,” as it is said. A touch of green that is San sciano beuse of the particular kind of savour and temper. Some minor austerity and demand in these tannins but mostly a sangiovese of land and air to express where it comes from. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted February 2022

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Gaiole

Immediate attention is paid to the herbs and resins in the aromas of Badia a Colibuono’s 2019. From the outset this is clear and present Gaiole sangiovese, lol, parochial and a sign of the time. No question the fruit is healthy and substantial but the vinoso quality of all that surrounds is just too blatant to ignore. As are the crisp acids and finely austere tannins. Transparent clarity is a given, as is a structural belief that this Chianti Classico Annata will live long with the best of them.? Last tasted March 2022

A distinctly herbal Annata from Badia a Coltibuono out of 2019, so very Monti with herbs and brush of all iterations. Notably rosemary with undertones of sage, cypress and gariga. The fruit keeps up with the greens but there is no mistaking the minty and pine forest behaviour of this wine. Super herbal, tart cherries and good fruit ripeness. Well managed tannins but those herbs! Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Belvedere mpòli Conte Guicciardini Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San sciano

Again it is San sciano that opens up the select savoury gates in an openly fragrant and knit sangiovese that is clearly and unequivolly 100 per cent just that. With thanks to a generous vintage and what is clearly a site that ripens ahead of many, the wine comes out smooth, itself also quite generous and even what could be lled morbido. As easy as varietal Classico gets and ready to go. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stellina?

Bibbiano’s Annata moves to the rhythm of infinite wisdom, coagulation, conjoining and come together, of dual terroirs, bright red fruit alighting with stern, edging to austerity tannin. The vintage rebelled against is one from which Tommaso Marocchesi Marzi sticks to his guns and creates an Annata of undeniable estate conviction. Needing time and yet smiling that stellina smile, finishing with that spicy Bibbiano spice. n’t think of more than three other Classico at this price that are equal in representation to pour by the glass. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda Tenuta Mocenni 2019

Vagliagli

Exuberant Mocenni perfume and one could not help but to be fully cognizant of how expressively floral and stone cool it is. For Annata it gets neither more concentrated nor more in tune with a vineyard than this. So transparent and connected to Mocenni which is how and why Annata’s naked character is so important to explain an estate’s riches and what is possible with the other elevated, concentrated and investigative appellations. Wood is ambitious and justified in such a se, even at this Annata level, for later on. As for now or just around the corner, well that works as well. Drink 2023-2028.? Tasted October 2021

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG Ser Gardo 2019

Vagliagli

Taken solely from the I Colli Estate’s vineyards in the UGA zone of Vaglialgi at the western edge of stelnuovo Berardenga commune, adjacent the Chianti Colli Senesi, 10 kilometres from Mocenni Estate, 15 minutes house to house. Makes for an antithetil Classico expression to what comes from the Mocenni amphitheatre. The difference is dramatic, higher in pH, lower in acidity, velvety, easier, readier. This 2019 vintage is a prime example, lush, 100 per cent sangiovese ripe, aged no more than six months in used barriques. Picked near to the last week of September, without exception, a week before Mocenni. Just a hint of phenolic chalkiness repeated on the back palate. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted October and November 2021

Borgo Salcetino Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Radda

Radda in 100 per cent sangiovese kicks into high acid and elevated tones, lifted and placed in the air above. Quite tart and also tannic, drying over the palate, feeling arid, dusty and enervating. Not a tired wine per se but one that makes you feel this way. Drink 2022-2023.? Tasted March 2022

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Vagliagli

Vagliagli is the UGA and a 10 per cent combination of same-same colorino and merlot bring some colour and also softness to Borgo Scopeto’s sangiovese face. Crunchy sangiovese that is, well developed from the happy vintage though not without some austerity and grip in the tannin. More so than many vintages for this western stelnuovo estate and the interest lies in how they will integrate and resolve. Drink 2023-2025.? Tasted March 2022

faggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Panzano

faggio so beautifully and comfortably represents Panzano from 2019, fruit at the front, mild structure settling in easily at the back. A pure frazione expression of sangiovese and from a vintage that laid such possibility out on a silver platter. faggio clearly heeded the ll and jumped on the opportunity. Finest Annata from the estate in quite some time. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

ntalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2019

Gaiole

Full on Gaiole from Baruffo in 2019, unsurprising and in effect expected from an estate that looks for fullness, wellness and acceptance from their generous wines. All sangiovese and nothing but the great red hope in desire for ntalici and Chianti Classico. Crisp in fact, well seasoned while noticeably tannic yet there is a feeling that you are requested to drink this as soon as possible. Find some Prosciutto di Parma, Fennocchiona and Pecorino for best results. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

 

rpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stelnuovo Berardenga

“A wonderful harvest for us and for the farm” tells Gioia Cresti. In terms of UGA this is stelnuovo and as a broad expression this Annata is a micro-version ptured in bottle, of wide open space and air. There are three vineyard lotions, 10 hectares in stelnuovo near to the winery, seven in Dofana (Vagliagli) and three in Montaperti. So fresh, 20 (normal) days on skins and the sweetest tannins available, even for a rpineta Annata. Linear and long, elastilly fleshy and just well, perfect. Yes, Gioia Cresti is a very good winemaker. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted November 2021

sa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

A ninety per cent sangiovese with five per cent each naiolo and malvasia nera, fermented in stainless steel and concrete vats, aged one year in tonneaux (500ml), yet 40 per cent remains in barrel. An ideal and balanced vintage, slower to ripen than ’18 with no rush too fast to “fruitiness and complexity.” Also beuse the sub-zone of San Donato in Poggio performs better in warmer vintages. Great freshness, blood orange and intense red fruit but it’s just unnny how this could be nothing but sa Emma sangiovese. Tannins are denser, longer and impressive, the overall feel one that tells us this Annata n go deep. Drink 2023-2029.? Tasted October 2021

saloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Panzano

Clearly, unequivolly and unmistakably Lamole beuse that perfume jumps from the glass to gain your immediate attention. Part Macigno and part lri, so much vinous resin and a walk through a pine forest. Cool Lamole liqueur, fine pture of 2019 and really just an ideal vintage for e Piu of stellinuzza lineage in their native Lamole habitat. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

stello Dei Rampolla Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Panzano

With 763 years existence and experience behind this 2019 Annata you just know someone has a distinct territorial advantage. stello di Meleto’s is quite rich, luxe and creamy for Annata and especially Gaiol, but is comes replete with great and preserving parochial acidity. That and sweet herbs, brushy savour and long strides. Solid, fresh for the vintage and the estate. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted February 2022

stello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

A vintage with more Riserva in a five to one ratio (to Annata) when usually the numbers are four to one. Of course more savour and grip than 2018 and long-chained tannins. The length is not merely outstanding in fact it resonates through all the senses, including there at which the quotidian and fantastic converge. Drink 2021-2024.? Tasted October 2021?and February 2022

stello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Radda

Mainly sangiovese with 10 per cent colorino and naiolo, from a diplomatic vintage, promising of quality and generous of quantity. For estate director Stefano Peruzzi it is harmonious and very much like 2016. Such a professionally composed and pragmatilly styled Chianti Classico, not what could be lled luxe or lush though clearly balanced in its fruit to acid compendium. Delivers a purity of citrus crunch and is surely a design of tradition and place. While you feel a slight malo creaminess this is not a question of texture but one that speaks in fresh sangiovese tones specific to these lower hills of Radda.? Last tasted March 2022

A fine vintage here for stello di Radda with their well-judged, sweetly sumptuous and succulent sangiovese. Shows a level of consistency in place that may have or would not have been possible just ten years ago. Warmer vintages and dedited agricultural concern elevate the year after year game. In 2019 the acids and spices merge, unite and fixate on the fruit for a lovely circular swirl of freshness, vim and flavour. Really fine in nine. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted October 2021

stello Di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Radda

No doubt that Chianti Classico will always be fresh and spirited from Volpaia but it somehow finds a way in every vintage to become increasingly fluid, silky, clear and beautiful. The upper vineyards are helping more and more every year, plus a team working the vines and the wines together for more than 20 years. Yet this vintage still shows some backbone while overall much of the story remains to unfold and be told. Re-visit next year and the one after that for the emergence of the full story. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted October 2021

stelvecchi Chianti Classico DOCG potondo 2019

Radda

Lovely textured vintage for the potondo in full pture of rich and ripe fruit. Some grip in tannin but mainly acidity that elevates and perches the substantial sangiovese up where it belongs in the Radda ether and with 2019 as the backdrop. Great work for the vintage. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

An ancient sea salty and airy western Chianti Classico sangiovese from Cinciano does Poggibonsi/San Donato in Poggio proud if in just a bit of its owns speacial and ulterior way. Always that silky, glycerol and substantial fruit ahead of all else. Beauty and purity, ease and such drink-ability. At the height of that ideal from 2019. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

Colle Bereto Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Radda

So very Radda from Bernardo Bianchi’s ’19 Annata, fruit and acid structure in the arena of the cool while plenty of both preside. Only a small percentage of colorino shades the sangiovese from red to further red and the palate is simply sangiovese. There are parts iron and others blood orange out of 2019, fruit sorted to optimum purity and the least amount of bitters pressed into the hull of the wine. Quite structured and as always, impressive. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted March 2022

Condoro Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Condoro is stellina on the western front, quietly aromatic and shilling the high toned, almost acetic style from the western edge of the central valley. Quite tart and astringent, more parts that make this tough and out of balance. Drink 2022.? Tasted March 2022

Conti pponi/Villa lcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Montefioralle

Fine and far from presumptuous Annata here from Il Conte, exemplary of a Greve, digging a bit deeper into Montefioralle sangiovese. Firm of dark and even dusty fruit, antsy and a bit racy while still this youthful, unsettled and needing time. Firm and grippy for the vintage, absolutely lcinaia in style and a true representation of the multifarious estate soils. Drink 2024-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Vagliagli

From the geographil zone of Vagliagli in the western section of stelnuovo Berardenga commune and a sangiovese augmented by seven per cent naiolo plus (3) colorino grown at 335m. Spends 13 months in 41 hl (untoasted) French oak barrels. Classicism inrnate for the territory with a Vagliagli twist, über savoury, youthful and fuelled by stone-strewn Alberese (limestone) vineyards. Creates a tannic austerity and a request for allowing this sangiovese Annata time to flesh out and settle in. Two years minimum, after which the very cherry fruit will act more aromatilly expressive. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted December 2021

Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG Petrignano 2019

Vagliagli

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San sciano

This the fourth vintage of Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vacri’s Chianti Classico takes the next step, with a level of sweet acidity that really moves your palate and also beuse decreased wood does less to distract as much as in ’17 and ’18. Also de-stemmed by hand (as opposed to a new machine that will do a much better job in 2020), so here there is also some crushing. While there is some efficy and esculente essence in the tannins there is also a delite nature about this San sciano sangiovese. Very good energy, very river stone, sand-felt and also by a little bit of Galestro rolled into one fine and lengthy Chianti Classico. Good tannin management is executed with precocious acumen with help from adding the previous year’s lees in the bottle. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted November 2021

Fattoria della’Aiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Vagliagli

Mainly sangiovese with 10 per cent merlot and colorino aged in large botti plus stainless steel. Pitchy purple, Galestro meeting Macigno silk, mid-weight compaction and concern. Tannins are equalizing with the wood making a textural statement in a Vagliagli with good linger. Not a flashy Chianti Classico but one entrenched in the UGA soil. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Di Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

The Annata of Montecchio always express a deeper San Donato in Poggio, classilly citrus and red fruit meeting salumi cure, but there is always more. To the story and the point, Annata from 2019 gives earth, juice bled through stone and clay. If other UGAs are akin to Santenay than this Barberino Tavarnelle could be compared to say, Volnay. In sangiovese of course and Montecchio accedes to a Villages level, here in their suitably hyperbolic Annata. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Fattoria La Leccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stellina

Beautifully blood orange sangiovese from stellina’s La Leccia, fully equipped with red citrus, even some pink grapefruit. Then the structure and the verdancy take charge, especially on the palate, with some tannin unresolved and yet other structural parts that will work overtime to make the grade. Wait a year or two in any se. Drink 2023-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

“To me, one of the best years for grapes,” tells winemaker Claudio Gozzi and the wood tank used for fermentation and now aging makes this noticeably a year wiser (than 2018) and so much more suitable to making this 100 per cent sangiovese. Even without tasting you n tell there’s a refinement, a lm and a settling that 2018 does not have. Cleaner, much more precision and seamless behaviour. Perfect volatility, sweet acidity and long, fine chains of tannin. Pure and honest, exacting, readier and will be just ideal with another year or so of time. Approximately 7,500 bottles produced. Drink 2022-2028.? Tasted October 2021

Fattoria Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG Nuovo 2019

Radda

Fulsome and so purposefully developed sangiovese from Piero Lanza’s roll and sway of a Radda vineyard. Gelid yet tumbling and even a bit cumbersome while this youthful but what Poggerino is given is what Poggerino gives back. Strength over power, headiness over density, reality over headlines. A full and satisfying Chianti Classico with so much integrity in correct alignment with this place. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stellina

Yet another Pomona Annata pretty in pulchritude, handsome in heavenly sangiovese and grande by the goodness of grace. The blood orange by jove of sangiovese juiced for success. Trust when you hear that Moni Raspi’s cloudy ferments look like they will never clarify, purify and deliver the message of her stellina vineyards but they have and they do. There is risk and leaps of faith in her work but she is a true scientist with artistic style and merit. She makes great Annata and more with 2019 being a new launching pad to prove the point.? Last tasted February 2022

The flesh and full palate address continues where 2018 left off though there is an openness to ’19 that speaks to more warmth and a weightiness of developed tannin. Of comports in structural components, polymerizing commotions and long chains of conveyance. Bread as sustenance and life from a 100 per cent sangiovese Annata out of Moni Raspi’s Sant’Ilario and Vigna del Termine vineyards teaming up for ress and no distress. Oh sweet Chianti Classico surrender, “I’d be a fool to try to espe you.” Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted October 2021

Fattoria Santo Stefano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Greve

Greve and 100 per cent sangiovese, super Greve in fact, heady, sturdy, red lightning cherry and volumetric in terms of substance, alcohol and structure. Linear, translucent, dusty-savoury with more texture and silky consistency than what may have first been ascertained. Quietly aromatic yet attractively informative. Not what should be considered or lled a crushable wine beuse all the constituent parts are solid, in tact, tactful and together. Almost seamless and perhaps an estate en route to being (almost) famous. Drink 2024–2028.? Tasted February and March 2022

Felciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Panzano

Panzano and 100 per cent sangiovese, without a shadow of a doubt on either front, chewy and fulsome fruit, lots of sun and ripeness, chalky Galestro and perhaps even Pietraforte-induced structure. Acids are quite high for 2019 but then again it’s all sangiovese so why be surprised. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Panzano

Giovanni Manetti explains “I have over 20 hectares of over 40 years. Even if there are 20-30 days separating the picking from start to finish in a vintage there is always a marker, especially with sangiovese. And with old vines they are not nearly as susceptible to stressors. This Vigna del Sorbo will succeed, even with all of the (climate events and vintage stressors) mentioned here.” Annata 2019 was bottled in July and is not yet released. “The vintage of balance, pleasant wines, very charming.” That said also toned musculature, grip, fineness of tannins. Plenty of acidity, here at 6.50 tA, chalky liquidity, round enough to offer an immensity of early pleasure. Don’t be fooled into thinking ’19 is simply for the here and now as longevity is a guarantee. This was known from the start when the wines were in tank, showing great perfume and tasting with Fontodi freshness and acidity. Not easy drinking but drinkable, with Panzano resin and parochial acidity. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted October 2021

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta Di Lamole 2019

Lamole

Filetta waits its turn, always the last picked vineyard in Lamole and as with 2018 October 10th was the date for Fontodi’s fruit. Giovanni’s cousin owns the vineyard and records date back to 1045, rare and historic for Chianti Classico. A restrained, elastic and finessed vintage is 2019, blessed with the Lamole perfume, blood orange addendum and Fontodi body. Not a vintage of power or strength and so much more so Lamole which makes one wonder just how cool climate accentuated the other producers’ 2019s will be. Other vintages of Filetta have been fine, even ressing and reaching levels of deep understanding but 2019 is more of a pop and pour vintage with true frazione acids and a harmonizing palate creaminess. Drink this while ’18 continues to settle in. Drink 2022-2029.? Tasted February 2022

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Gaiole

Frescobaldi’s Tenuta Perano takes full advantage of the white lreous soils to set upon a path for and with great vintage promise. The sangiovese in this bottle is smooth, suave and mineral, tart and full on gregarious of a specific Gaiole tang. A drinkable Annata, tried and true, delicious, accessible and yet nary a moment of flaccidity or softness abounds. Ideal for three years on without any concern for devolution or change. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Gagliole Chianti Classico DOCG Rubiolo 2019

I Collazzi I Bastioni Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San sciano

Woody, savoury and sour-edged sangiovese, tart and oddly confected. Quick and if stylish in its own way the San sciano aspect is covered by the wood and the work. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted February 2022

I Fabbri Olinto Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Lamole

Olinto, always from the highest elevation, Lamole perfume up to 11 where there is also some merlot planted, at 12 per cent part of the blend and again no barrel. Freshness at the highest premium and with the merlot so ripe with thanks to vine age and warmer climate conditions, a wine so drinkable you could hardly believe the truth. Beauty in florals inrnate, especially violets and ndied iris, juicy if peppery pansy and nasturtium. Last tasted February 2022

Aside from the upfront, obvious and always beautiful I Fabbri as a function of Lamole perfume there is this incredulous ripeness and sweetness of fruit. Disbelieving beuse of the elevation and how it was once virtually impossible to achieve such sugar and phenolic ripeness in this part of Greve for Chianti Classico wines. The 20 per cent merlot is just so apropos for blending into sangiovese, from this most generous vintage and to tame the high level of acidity. While this classic normale from Susanna Grassi is about as crushable as any 2019 one n’t help but wonder if sangiovese needed no help this time around. No matter really. Just enjoy. Drink 2021-2024.? Tasted October and November 2021

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Lamole Olinto Grassie E Figlio 2019

Lamole

Not that other vintages are lacking the clarity of Lamole perfume and terroir but 2019 brings the want and desire beyond the frazione’s intangibles. They being flesh and mid-palate, again not absent in other years though magnified, elastic and extra from 19’s warm generosity. Great thanks and aromatic response, more than this in the ways of accession, reach and scope. Purely Lamole plus, plus. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted February 2022

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG Terra Di Lamole 2019

Lamole

The top “tier” Annata in Susanna Fabbri’s range is this main terroir sangiovese, the Terre di Lamole. Lamole at heights, in hyperbole, expressive and of course, so very perfumed. A veritable potpourri of Macigno del Chianti and all the florals imagined, tied up in one red petalled, native herb and mineral bouquet. Grace and understated charm, seamlessness and the sort of structure that build and builds but does so without mortar between the stones. Natural and beautiful. Drink 2023-2029.? Tasted March 2022

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Panzano

The Solo Sangiovese Annata (and listed as such only on Amerin labels), bottled just three weeks ago, über fresh, a picture perfect vintage for all appellative levels but beginning here with sangiovese. So easy to drink, very pure, balanced, all things “it has to be beuse this is Chianti Classico, not Gran Selezione,” explains and insists Iacopo Morganti. Less acidity than ’18 but more than ample amount to strike an accord with ideally reasoned and ripened fruit. Picked in October and you’d know but not know it. Really like the liquorice chew in this sangiovese, it sticks to and along with you. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Panzano

More than promising and beautiful vintage for Monia Piccini’s Annata but a true Panzano expression of the swift and the sweet, patterned and handsome. Draws from vineyard blocks ever evolving and not from those one step short of necessary ripeness. Even keel and a knowledge meeting emotion just right for a wine like this. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted February 2022

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Radda and Gaiole

Made from the first pass in all of Angela Fronti’s vineyards, two in Radda and three in Gaiole, although the philosophy is to concentrate on Radda beuse that is the home-front and there is a prejudice provided by what happens through the vintage. That said Angela waits a full year before deciding where the grapes end up, as “the most objective approach.” A decent yielding vintage comparatively speaking and a Chianti Classico in 2019 as generous and round as Fronti has ever made. But in truth the Radda plus Gaiole freshness times savour multiplied by sapidity results in a quotient of great cumulative respect. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted October 2021

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Istine 2019

Radda

One must have to look at, walk this and stand in awe of of this vineyard, the steepness at 30-50 per cent grade with a terrace in the middle to break it up. Heavy in Alberese inclusive of massive yellow lreous boulders and also Galestro. In fact the medium stones removed were transferred to create terraces for olive trees on the other side of the ntina (by Angela Fronti’s father no less). The vineyard faces north so the freshness is off the charts, while the ripeness is so matter of purposeful vintage fact. The label represents the position of the vines in coordinates, echoed in the machicolations of a Fronti sangiovese that drops all the Radda stones on unsuspecting palates through fruit openings between supporting acid corbels of a projecting tannic parapet. Vigna Istine is at the forefront of Chianti Classico’s battle to win over the world. Follow this example. Drink 2023-2029.? Tasted October 2021

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna sanova Dell’Aia 2019

Radda

Smaller stones in Alberese and Galestro soils, in Radda, a four hectare plot where trebbiano and malvasia bian are also planted. The older plantings, their clones and density were not up to snuff so Angela restored and re-planted several years ago. The vines are just now coming into Raddese fruition. That zonal acidity is wholly unique and really shows through in this single-vineyard sangiovese, even if the breadth, complexity and power are not yet there, though elegance, charm and great possibility surely are. Look to 2021 for high end results. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted October 2021

Istine Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna varchione 2019

Gaiole

Less rocky than the Radda vineyards, here a single steep block surrounded by forest everywhere and picked ahead of sanova, therefore for 2019 in mid-September. The richest of the single vineyard Classico crus, a wine of texture, integration and qualcosa di varchione, a fullness and a feeling of Gaiole woods, herbals, distillate and brush. The under, over and what’s growing all round. Drink 2022-2028.? Tasted October 2021

Isole E Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

The 2019 has some spice, that much is true and that is the result of selection, ideally suited sangioivese clones and the pH directive brought about by some of Chianti Classico’s finest naiolo. Fermented in stainless, aged in medium sized oak barrels, but older ones. Has entered a more structured and tannic stage and it may be wondered if that is the norm. Yes tells Paolo, when first in bottle there is freshness and fruit, then after a few months it closes in before opening up again the following summer.? Last tasted February 2022

Bottled only one month ago and a vintage that brings a pragmatic smile to Paolo de Marchi’s face, with thanks to good volume meeting even better quality. As a vintage “easier than 2015,” tells de Marchi, “which for Cepparello was a bernet vintage.” Wink-wink. Here 15 per cent naiolo intersects with sangiovese for a perfectly timed and executed balance between pH and acidity. “There’s always naiolo in my Chianti Classico,” says Paolo and the truth lies in the generosity of both aromatics and structure. The 2018 was a more uneven season and the wine it produced is actually quite ready to drink, so why wait on it? The 2019 on the other hand has it all, from a growing period so facile and while more difficult to manage during fermentation (not to mention de Marchi’s battle with pneumonia) the end result is a Chianti Classico emblematic of Olena and one to see evolve slowly over a ten to 12 year stretch. Drink 2023-2030.? Tasted October 2021

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Duelame 2019

The yellow to brown (or tan) label from Lamole di Lamole is the high-toned, highest of UGA acid sangiovese. Even a five per cent of pH balancing naiolo does not seem to tame the acidity in this lightning red sangiovese. That said the wood brings a creaminess and an accentuation of malic meets morbido texture. Curious Lamole, characterful to be sure. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG Maggiolo 2019

Le Miccine Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Gaiole

Le Miccine is truly, ostensibly and unequivolly Gaiole sangiovese what with the herbs and brush coming straight out of the forests of the UGA’s hills. It is also an Annata of great vintage ripeness, generosity and flesh. Deliciously delivered, well crafted and perfectly suitable for now plus five years forward. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Le Muricce Chianti Classico DOCG Leccione 2019

Greve

Le Murrice is a producer from Greve in Chianti with wines also made from lands north of the territory. The Greve (100 per cent) sangiovese is this Leccione, tart and lactic, old-school yet with a young and promising heart. Lacking some fruit and relies on winemaking to create a Chianti Classico experience, mostly succeeding though not really delivering Greve. Drink 2022-2023.? Tasted March 2022

L’erta Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Radda

Same work as is done in 2020 with five per cent naiolo in a vintage of more body and yet similar soul to the year that will follow. Definitely fuller and just as expansive but a touch rounder in 2019. Was a 25-27 day maceration, a week longer than L’Erta di Radda norm. Was released in September 2021 and will soon be sold through to allow the ’20 Annata to hit the market, likely in June.? Last tasted March 2022

Grown together so essentially a field blend and Diego Finocchi likes to use some naiolo (five per cent) beuse it adds more pH to the wine, up to 3.5-3.65 compared to the 3.0-3.1 of sangiovese. But just the five per cent beuse it brings up that pH so that there is a salty sensation on the palate while the sapidity and freshness are guaranteed as well. Diego has also figured out over the last five years to allow his fruit to hang for seven to 10 more days, finding balance and with that extra pH, total harmony in his Chianti Classico. Alcohol is not considered and need not be beuse balance is everything, as witnessed by this pitch perfect Annata. Co-fermented and in terms of next up for Chianti Classico this is the one you have to try, taste and understand. Of structure that suspends for so long. A Classico epiphany. Only 14,000 bottles made. Drink 2022-2028.? Tasted November 2021

Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stellina

Fleshy and refreshing will best describe the Mazzei Annata from 2019, a sangiovese-plus example from stellina well heeded of fruit and looking to be given immediate attention. In return it will offer immediate gratifition. Drink now and tomorrow, and tomorrow. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted February 2022

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Sangió 2019

Panzano

Panzano vineyard purchased in December of 2018, of Pietraforte and Galestro. Sala is the name of the property, in conversion to organics and biodynamics, this being the first vintage of this wine from that property. Ripens at or earlier than Monte Bernardi, a place of higher winds and also sun. No stem usage yet in the first year beuse Michael Schmelzer feels that he needs to get a grip on the place but starting from 2020 stems are in the mix. Comes across like blood orange, a factor of heat and wind, with ripe tannins as a brightness from a young vineyard’s fruit. A sangiovese moving towards complex dynamism yet for now the opposite of cyclil viscous movement, angles rounded and such a crunchy wine. Brightness inrnate. Drink 2021-2025.? Tasted November 2021

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico DOCG Retromarcia 2019

Panzano

A vintage of great fruit and acidity so heavy stem usage and also beuse Michael Schmelzer learned from a minor mistake in 2017. That vintage had better acidity then anticipated and so more stem use should have been employed. “I love the vintage, though I like the classic vintages more, like ’16 and ’18.” Here the high tannin quality and that acidity is really about as good as it gets. “I want people to think I make great wines but then find out they happen to be natural. It’s not a goal.” Everything is in check and all the edginess is just right there, lift, animal, swarthiness and grip. “Anaerobic winemaking is to me a broken idea. We see this in wines that preserve oxidative character.” And so this is a wine that will not fall apart as it ages. Here an Annata that will go well into ten-plus years.? Drink 2022-2028. Tasted November 2021

Montelvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Greve

A portion is whole cluster somewhere in the 20-25 per cent range, at once a precise number and yet vague enough to not be held accountable. Also a portion left on skins for more than two months time. Clearly a wine in which the winemaker (Tim Manning) held no fear of volatile acidity and this sits well under the threshold. Not exactly a 100 per cent sangiovese beuse there are some rows of naiolo and also nina nera but not enough to quantify a percentage. Surely a wine of texture and what feels like a “thickened” acidity meaning there is no sear, certainly not out of fear and as a sangiovese is really quite near and dear. Darker cherry incidentally in a Chianti Classico that feels like tradition albeit new and in a very tactile way. I feel the touch.? Last tasted March 2022

Just a lovely, lm and inviting entry into Classico Annata, equalized by a harmoniously seasoned palate w,ell-integrated and equanimous set of sweet acidity and fine tannin. Modern and beautiful, fresh and refreshing, wood a player while also serving to make things whole. Drink early and often. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted February 2022

Montefioralle Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Montefioralle

Getting to know the eponymous producer Montefioralle’s arch classic and definitive Montefioralle Classico is not easy beuse when you make so few bottles only a select number of people n actually access to taste. They are now in Ontario and if fortune smiles you will note the stealth savoury character and lithe swarthiness, the ndid accessibility and clean groove running throughout. If 2019 is a perfect vintage for this Annata I nnot say but it naturally fits the Montefioralle UGA’s vernacular, softly spoken, in clarity and also humility. What may be referred to athletilly as a natural. Drink 2023-2029.? Tasted February 2022

Monterotondo Chianti Classico DOCG Vigna Vaggiolata 2019

Gaiole

Dusty in youthful tonality for this 85 per cent Gaiole sangiovese in which naiolo and malvasia nera bring the extra added seasoning into the multi-endemic varietal mix. Baking spice, of cinnamon and nutmeg, then savouries, by cumin and coriander, finishing with grasses, of stem and hay. Liquid wood salve texture changes the gears, adds to the credibility and creativity, even the complexity. Needs time to try and come together. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG sanuova Di Nittardi La Doghessa 2019

stellina

Full juiced, pressed and throttled Annata here from 2019, deep, toasty and firm. All the fruit and more, berries, cherries and plum, tart and dependent on acids for support. That they receive and then some, especially with the level of tannic thrush so purposefully aligned. This is sangiovese that needs the bottle as much as any so oblige and set what bottles you own aside. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted February 2022

Ormanni Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

Talk about the passion and sangiovese needing the bottle. Thankfully Ormanni and so many Chianti Classico have time. Thankfully the world is opening to a deeper understanding that sangiovese must be given respect and an open-ended line. The dust and the cries in this wine need to settle, the tannins lm down and the fruit be allowed to shine. It is there, all red leathery, juicy and tart, finishing on a quivering astringent string note. Bof Compte A Rebours. Drink 2024-2029.? Tasted March 2022

Panzanello Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Panzano

High level of volatility surrounds and distracts from quality richness in fruit aching to be heard. Panzano does not often exhibit this high level of VA and so the maceration here went on just a bit long, followed by a pressing off that brought some angst along for the ride. Drink 2022-2023.? Tasted March 2022

Pasolini Dall’onda Chianti Classico DOCG Pio 7 2019

San Donato in Poggio

Here from San Donato in Poggio comes a lovely if modern sangiovese augmented by “other varieties” but the push-pull, acid-pH balance seems to be a blessing of naiolo in disguise. Merlot likely, as well if in addition to another international party due to the verdant and creamy swirl running through the blood orange and sanguine expression of this wine. Either way this is strawberry-cherry San Donato in Poggio as filling in a savoury polenta ke. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Pensieri Di vatina Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stelnuovo Berardenga

The sangiovese from stelnuovo Berardenga is always another animal, openly fragrant, expansive and then deep on the palate. Just look at the place and then it would be impossible to wonder why. Pensieri di vatina’s is just this, full of air, sandy-salty and then fruit that layers in leathery roll-up style. Thought the tannins were just a bit gritty but they roll along and cover the fruit with equally proper style. Good work here and one to really consider. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted March 2022

Poci Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Poci is loted in the southwest corner of Radda in close proximity to parts of stellina, stelnuovo (Vagliagli) and also Gaiole. A unique lotion and one to inspire characterful if singular sangiovese. There is a warmth and a depth to this ’19 Annata, and an affinity with Brania in the way it combines freshness with that depth. There is a good amount of chew here in a wine to really sink your teeth into. Seems a bit toasty now but that should settle down before too long. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

Podere paccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Radda

Not only is 2019 an über fresh Annata vintage but see where is lands when tasting it side by side and each with the previous ’18 and before that ’17, both of which remain just about as fresh as they were last year and the one before. The level of aromatic concentration here is simply off the charts, olfactory opening and mind expanding. That said you feel the botti still, something that has melted away from the others even while their fruit remains fully intact. Part early life and part bigger vintage but ultimately the bar is raised and the 2019 is just a gorgeous wine. Flavour and texture work in hoots to rry the load and allow this Annata to exhale and then inhale for several years of confidence and pleasure. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

Podere stellinuzza Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Lamole

Lamole perfume straight away, up front and knowable, floral but more so a matter of herbs and fungi, legumes and grasses all mulched into an aromatic potpourri. Silky and savoury, a sangiovese of clarity with thanks to vintage mainly, serving to accentuate but also openly lculate a sense of place. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Podere Cianfanelli Chianti Classico DOCG Cianfanello 2019

From Greve and understandably so, fruit well developed, ripe and full, good depth overall. Not overtly aromatic yet a broad potpourri emits. Quite concentrated, pressed and tannic. Traditional and knowable. Drink 2023-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Podere La ppella Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

Ah the beauty and grace of San Donato in Poggio and in these Rossini hands a stunning 2019 Annata. Aromatic elation, exultant floral lift and mineral euphoria. Fruit so stylish and defined, a dignity of stone and elements run through, nothing out of place, all following a line as if on a circle. A wine that always comes back to where it started while fleshing and gaining traction, picking up subtleties but most of all concentrating in succulence. While the expression is clearly San Donato in Poggio, Podere La ppella’s particular limestone terroir just n’t be missed, especially in an open and generous vintage such as this from 2019. Juiced orange, bloody, tart and health affirming, bled white stone and a soil gifting purity speak pure Colombino. There is so much to love and appreciate about the grace in this sangiovese. This is Bruno and Natascia Rossini’s land and style. Drink now and whenever, even forever. Drink 2022-2029.? Tasted February and March 2022

Podere Lecci E Brocchi Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stelnuovo Berardenga

From stelnuovo Berardenga and dramatilly so, big and open hearted, well filled with red fruit syrup of sangiovese liqueur. Lots of pressing here, concentration and some heavy, weighty and full tannins are the result. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Poggio Al Sole Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

From San Donato in Poggio and a sanguine mix of iron and orange, mixed soil sensations and really quite classic frazione feels. Builds tannins, climbs, develops and shows off its range. Plenty of wine her, quite exemplary and designed to hold steadfast for up to five years. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stelnuovo Berardenga

Poggio Bonelli’s Annata from 2019 is quite advanced and so ready to drink as if a three or four year-old sangioivese were in your glass. Earth and musky animale lead the aromatic front with a minor amount of Brett to naturalize and synthesize with the chewy red fruit. Acids are sour-edged and follow right in line. Drink 2022-2023.? Tasted February 2022

Pratale Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San sciano

Gets neither brighter nor further blessed of red fruit than this star of San sciano. No missing the mineral element neither, in fact there is a schist, marl and river stone stream running through the plush and succulent fruit in this stellar example of Classico sangiovese. Good tannic delivery at the end is tart and drying yet properly austere. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

Principe Corsini Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San sciano

A “complited spring,” tells Duccio Corsini, not an overheated summer and good harvest, done before the end of the first week of October. Good yielding though for Le Corti it rests at just under six tonnes per hectare, well below the appellative “disciplinare,” i.e. production code. Sealed under Diam #5, classilly Le Corti river stone savoury, with five per cent colorino. Full textured while maintaining the Corsini seasoning and San sciano vim. Succulent acids, lengthy tannins and early integration. Especially for 2019, urged on by aging in concrete tanks. Drink 2021-2025.? Tasted October 2021

Pruneto Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Radda

Seems to be the Pruneto Annata vintage we’ve all been waiting for. Such sangiovese air and breaths of freshness are welcome with arms and palates open wide. Great fruit man, pure cherries and then this feeling of distillate. Crisp and fresh with Raddese acidity and also herbology safely tucked within. Approach with na?veté and also know that aging is within the communal rds. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Querceto Di stellina Chianti Classico DOCG L’Aura 2019

stellina

Similar to the upcoming 2020 in that the heavy prevalence of Alberese soil wants to take control, even at the Annata level. A 2019 of wild berry, balsam and full peppery piqued sangiovese seasoning and enough freshness if rounded in ways that make for a most accessible Annata. Already evolving ever so slightly this way and it is said that L’Aura rounds by wood, if on a sle so incrementally minor as compared to 2020. Truth be told this is as much like Radda than it is stellina. Border proximity and elevation are responsible for this very fact. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2022

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Greve, Gaiole and Radda

Changes are in the air as always in perpetual and forward thinking motion and felt with most palpable readiness of promising concern in the Querciabella Annata. A wine of amalgamation, a triad of territorial delivery, each contribution as valid and poignant as the next. More to the point is how the grapes arrive and are poised to compliment, layer and celebrate each other. A wine of balance but understanding is a deep and wonderful thing. Note the brush with places, the layers of elevation and fluidity from red fruit flavours through textural tranquility. Seriously, serious and not so much. Just knowing, ready and willing to please.? Last tasted February 2022.

As always 100 per cent sangiovese from Radda, Greve and Gaiole, most of its life spent in larger format sks. At this point 25-30 hL with what would be even more purity extracted were there 50-70hL sizes involved. The level of transparent concentration is at what feels like the peak of Querciabella Annata. Every vintage is different and requires so much attention and that detail for fine tuning is so indelibly and intensely pitch elegant ptured in the generosity of this wine. Clearly a balance in the vineyards but also in how here they layer and come together. Really young, tannins wound and yet not so compact, fruit singing with sliding sle through three communes in succession. Drink 2023-2033. Tasted November 2021.

As always 100 per cent sangiovese from Radda, Greve and Gaiole, most of its life spent in larger format sks. At this point 25-30 hL with what would be even more purity extracted were there 50-70hL sizes involved. The level of transparent concentration is at what feels like the peak of Querciabella Annata. Every vintage is different and requires so much attention and that detail for fine tuning is so indelibly and intensely pitch elegant ptured in the generosity of this wine. Clearly a balance in the vineyards but also in how here they layer and come together. Really young, tannins wound and yet not so compact, fruit singing with sliding sle through three communes in succession. Drink 2023-2033.? Tasted November 2021

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San Donato in Poggio

From 2019 the Annata is über savoury, of pine forest and a sangiovese with 20 per cent other endemic grapes that take turns delivering herbs, underbrush, wild herbs and forest mulch. Finer tannins even if the wine is tight after all those aromatics emitting from the wine. This is the epitome of a sangiovese in Chianti Classico form needing time, not just in elévage but also in the bottle. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted November 2021

Risoli 1141 Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Gaiole

Like the ’19 Riserva tasted last month in Firenze there is a rounded and getable nature about the Brolio Annata that just speaks to a combination of vintage and place. That being 270 hectares of well thought out Gaiole intendment, including in Monti where the grapes should help create harmony in Risoli’s biggest volume Chianti Classico wine. n’t miss the Gaiole savour, herbals dried and also sweet, fruit layered from five distinct soils, each contributing and forming the basis for a pentangle of sangiovese righteousness. All in all a great modern era formula that would make the Iron Baron Bettino Risoli proud.? Last tasted April 2022

Risoli’s ’19 is really quite open, gregarious, sumptuous and available. A magil blend of five terroirs and one to enjoy with just about anything in the here and now. Certainly shows a sour cherry and red citrus angle used by elevated volatility but that’s where the food will come in. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Gaiole

Roc Di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Gaiole

As lreously tight and wound like a wire around a steel coil this Annata 2019 may be there is something other here, a feeling immediate, insightful and profound. Not just any sangiovese from Montegrossi and perhaps the vintage to explain a Gaiole notion for appellative Chianti Classico DOCG wines. A blend of 88 per cent sangiovese, (10) colorino and (2) naiolo. A reminder that Marco Risoli makes this and he makes Gran Selezione with no Riserva bridge and so at the Annata level there is great fruit, observation and intent. Yes it’s true that three years minimum in bottle are required to release the hounds of charm, but the sangiovese here has done its work silently and the result is a ’19 we n depend upon. Domestic and secure, a wine of warm diplomacy that will certainly bring people together, even those of differing philosophies. Brilliant harbinger for the vintage and what’s to come from the community at large. Grande, once again. Drink 2024-2032.? Tasted July and November 2021

San Fabiano lcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stellina

Rich and chalky, red fruit glare in the classic stellina way and quite structured for a 2019 Annata. Drink now if you must and with some air this will open, release and please but two years will do well to soften the edges and also integrate the wood spice. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted February 2022

San Giorgio A Lapi Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stelnuovo Berardenga

Flawed. Acetic well above 1.0, in fact this is acetic 1.0, likely upwards of 1.5 in volatile acidity. Hard to find any fruit or nuance as a result. Certainly no sense of stelnuovo Berardenga. Drink 2022.? Tasted March 2022

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Gaiole

“For us it was a bit different than the rest of Chianti Classico,” explains Lu Martini di Cigala. “There was a big hail in July, delaying ripeness and three layers of green harvest was necessary, to reduce yields and allow the plants to regenerate.” Meant for a late pick that finished on the 16th of October. The final count was 20-25 per cent down yet there are very few Chianti Classico that combine aromatic concentration, flavour complexity, textural glycerin and compaction of tannin like this. Every part of the cherry and cool herbals persist throughout. Prompts the question as to when Lu first saw signs of climate change, events and extremes. Lu’s response is that he realized something was not right in 1998, when the skin of the berries were burned by the sun. In 2017 the vintage brought early frost and then dry heat, with the coming 2021 being another frost year yet again. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted November 2021 and February 2022

San Leonino Chianti Classico DOCG Al Limite 2019

stellina

Direct spike of red lightning stellina fruit in a right proper and openly fragrant, upright, generous and perfectly seasoned ’19 Annata. The fruit soars like an eagle, takes it as far as Annata will go. Lovely texture and generous mouthfeel. A wine senza limite. “So put me on a highway, and show me a sign. And take it to the limit, one more time.” Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Stomennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

stellina

Stomennano’s western stellina sangiovese is not merely one that delivers a juicy, fleshy and red citrus bleed but even more the kind that speaks to terroir as much as any in the UGA. This Annata screams Galestro, clay accessibility mixed with grippy schist. Literally smells and tastes like lreous clay, wet and stony, like Villages pinot noir from Santenay, in a way, but sangiovese is sangiovese and yet this n be consumed just about any day. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted February 2022

Tenuta Di mpomaggio Chianti Classico DOCG mpomaggio 2019

Radda

Greve

Quite the herbal hyperbole here from Greve, pine forest and the resin oozing off the trees. Syrupy in the mouth, thick red liquidity in sangiovese that draws the aura of the land, lends it sweetness and thickness its plot. It’s a soup metaphor for a reason. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

Tenuta Orsumella Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

San sciano

Really firm San sciano sangiovese from Orsumella though the grip and also depth are in cohorts with quite the impressive vintage gather of fruit. You sense realism and intention in this wine, nothing overdone or gone too far. There is something strong and in charge for sure though everything is about structure and controlled longing. Impressive across the board. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Tenute Squarcialupi La stellina Chianti Classico DOCG Squarcialupi 2019

stellina

Terreno Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Greve

A very specific quadrant of Greve is accessed and acquiesced in Terreno’s Classico Annata, not shy but yes restrained, upwardly mobile and with an understanding of how to reach markets old and new, young and old. A great family member this Terreno, hospitable and generous, open and yet respectful of traditions, acquired and also introduced. Best Annata ever for the house. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted February 2022

Tolaini Chianti Classico DOCG Vallenuova 2019

stelnuovo Berardenga

Some merlot augments the sangiovese in this stelnuovo Berardenga Annata and it shows in the lithely verdant plus creamy smoothness noted, from nose to palate. Also a 2019 of more tannin than many, felt and understood as the wine dries away with classic sangiovese austerity. Savour, acidity and brushy flora are all there, up front and at the finish. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

Triac La Madonnina Chianti Classico DOCG Bello Stento 2019

Greve

Bello Stento, literally “hardly beautiful” is just a perfectly traditional example of Chianti Classico, especially in Annata form, finding a modernity of freshness, accessibility and beauty without compromise or giving in to trend. Aromatilly brushy and Amaro herbal while also in delivery of real glycerol and sap running texture. Neither crunch nor chew but something in between. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted February 2022

Vallepicciola Chianti Classico DOCG 2019

Vagliagli

Always fulsome, concentrated and so well developed, texture in sangiovese defined, climbing to syrup and jam but staying just shy of that consistency. Concurrently and expressly Vagliagli, hinting at the volatile and again remaining comfortably in check. Very blood orange and red currant with mineral earth running through the wood flavours. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico DOCG Terre Di Prenzano 2019

Greve

Perfect medium weight and sweetly initiated entry into Classico is just this from Vignamaggio’s multi-terraced, tiered and controlled Annata 2019. A sangiovese plus parts thereof in varietal addendum to squeeze ripenesses and pack them in like punch. Fills by barrel and parts equalized amount to an easy CC that knows just what to do. Simple and forthright. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted February 2022

Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG Vendemmia 54 2019

Greve

Not on the lighter side of Greve so near to Monterioralle per se but surely a Classico picked and rendered in a fresh, come and get it style. That said there is some mild peppery jolts mixed with spiciness that shows up both on the nose and also the palate. Continues into some sangiovese austerity with dried herbs and drying tannin at the finish. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted February 2022

Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG La Ghirlanda 2018

Vagliagli

A beautiful and open-knit Mocenni Annata from 2018, not exactly lithe or shrinking but already quite available at this time. That said the acidity is in full control and while the tannins are ones of grip and fortitude they sidle in and connect with the other constituent parts. Further to that this is a wine that continues to roll forward, collecting matter and growing in stature and as a result complexities. Ok enough about that.? Last tasted October 2021

La Ghirlanda is the Bindi Sergardi Annata from the Tenuta Mocenni (estate) in stelnuovo Berardenga and if any one single bottling from Alessandra sini Bindi Sergardi should act as the spokes-wine, this would have to be it. The authentic and exacting sangiovese of full regale and ornamentation, the ”garland,” celebratory Chianti Classico of purpose for proprietors and place. Pulls from Mocenni’s Alberese and Galestro, managing structure while exulting succulence of fruit. The most getable and beautiful Chianti Classico Annata is here, bright and balanced. So ready to be taken advantage of which might act contrary to sangiovese messaging but do not fear beuse enough Alberese meddling equips this 2018 to offer its best through the middle of the dede. Drink 2021-2026.? Tasted May 2021

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG Ser Gardo 2018

Vagliagli

I Colli Estate’s Vagliagli vineyards abutting the Chianti Colli Senesi are the source and so different to that of the Mocenni amphitheatre. A higher pH and a lessening of acidity make for a silky smooth and lush Classico. The 2018 is a perfumed vintage, with brushy herbs and lol flora. So much more perfume, lovely florals and a resolution of the tannins into the middle points and parts of the wine. Beautiful work with one hundred per cent sangiovese to express this southwestern corner of the Vagliagli sub-zone.? Lastt asted October 2021

Ser Gardo, sibling to La Ghirlanda, both Annata wines but here from Bindi Sergardi’s I Colli estate. Same stelnuovo Berardenga zone but slight alteration in soil. Still the Alberese but less Galestro. Not as glycerin and luxe as Ghirlanda and even with a lighter to easy vintage like 2018 there is little doubt that sangiovese like this will need some time. The sensation taken here is lime-chalky, sapid in nature, less give and more demand. Not seriously tense but a year would assist in softening the grip and integrating the lighter 2018 fruit. Seemingly more traditional, herbal and savoury sangiovese to be sure and yet always with that post-modernist’s Bindi Sergardi thick brushstroke of style. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted May 2021

ntalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2018

Baruffo the dog, one of twenty currently on the property. Baruffo the 100 per cent sangiovese of increased concentration, richness and breadth as compared to the blended ntalici. Ages for one year in 20 hL barrels, plenty of development for what is a late-picked, fully reasoned and seasoned Annata. Will resolve and show its best in two years. Another step forward taken, consistent within the estate style. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted February 2022

rpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

stelnuovo Berardenga

stelnuovo Beradenga’s rpineta Fontalpino farms vineyards at the estate and also in Montaperti plus Dofana within the Vagliagli UGA of the commune’s western butterfly wing. Winemaker Gioia Cresti so magilly and intrinsilly marries the mix of fruit for a classico that resides apart from her cru sangiovese. Low yields for Annata off of mixed clay, sand and also (Alberese) limestone come from mixed elevations between 380-420m picked across the entirety of the month of September. A true stacked ferment concept, an honest and exemplary estate wine to get right at what Cresti and her estate are all about. Gioia is a cru fanatic but this sangiovese really matters. The succulence, salumi meatiness and forza della natura are all you need to know about her skills, humility and humanity. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted November 2021

stello Di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Radda

A unique and particular vintage, unlike others in the recent past or what would come from 2019. More important is how here at Lolità Il Becco along with nearby Il Corno the conditions were so different from the rest of the territory. Arid and warmer in this area, making for dry, tight and plum dusty sangiovese, even a bit austere. The warmth has not resulted in density of concentration as it might in some other vintages, take 2015 as an example. While it may be missing the sweet harmony of 2019 there is a clear message of Raddese acidity and likely a good long life ahead.? Last tasted March 2022

A sangiovese from Radda in Chianti that in Annata form and out of a vintage that requires less time in order to express its terroir. The vineyards are loted in the lower part of the valley, below the Macigno sandstone and away from the more lreous eastern and southern sections. This is the place of “formazione geologi particolare,” a schisty area where Galestro is common. A very pretty version of stello di Radda’s sangiovese is exactly this, crispy and spicy, acid circulating and turning the fruit from soil earthy to creatively succulent. Crunchy too and ready for immediate work, best to match alongside grilled Tusn sausages, eggplant and zucchini. Drink 2021-2024.? Tasted April 2021

Fattoria Cigliano Di Sopra Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

San sciano

Still a good leesy reduction to start, wine of extraction and in the third year so different from before but not yet in discovery of the balance and especially tannic extraction. The wine has come into a much better place, the tannins have lost much of their astringency and the wood has melted in. Drinking well right now.? Last tasted November 2021

From a place (San sciano) that gifts perfume but in the most savoury of ways. There too is a deep red darkness to the fruit and here the full advantage of 2018 is taken into consideration. Everything here is done with acumen intention, including maceration, pressing and extraction. The redundancy effects the outcome, restricts the subtleties and brings immediate gratifition. Fourth vintage for the estate’s young winemakers and expect two steps forward from 2019. Drink 2020-2022.? Tasted February 2020

Fattoria della’Aiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Vagliagli

Has lightened through linear design and really shows that it was not a vintage of great generosity. More so one of savour and direct impression though now feeling a bit closed. It’s a phase and should resume an open door policy from late ’22 through early ’26.? Last tasted February 2022

The field work put in by the team at Fattoria della Aiola in the most challenging 2017 vintage pays double dividends with the ease and amenability of ’18. The Annata arrives from low in the valley below Radda where the lotion looks easterly through the true stelnuovo Berardenga UGA. If that ’17 rried the air of refreshment and lightness of stelnuovo sangiovese then get a whiff and a taste of this ’18. Sharp, tight, composed, finessed and always shining bright. The depth of fruit and structure is magilly subtle, hidden in shadows and at present allowing the pleasure factor to reign supreme. There is grip and determination behind that pretty scene and so some sangiovese longevity is surely promised. Drink 2021-2026.? ?Tasted August 2020

Fattoria Le Masse Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

San Donato in Poggio

First vintage with new (large format) wood and it shows on the nose, from the vineyards in Morrocco, a land totally different from Le Masse’s estate lands. Not exactly like the Classico soils of Galestro and Alberese but still rocky, hard soil that drains easily and very different than Chianti nearby. Solo sangiovese, land directed, soil funky, fresh and vital. Partially fermented in wood tanks, a touch Bretty and notable tannic. Needs to and will settle in nicely. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted October 2021

Fattoria Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG ‘Primum Line’ 2018

San Donato in Poggio

Montecchio’s 2018 has come around, having strayed away and found how to amortize, acclimatize and ultimately prioritize what needs to settle and feel just right. A textural, liquid San Donato in Poggio red soil, Ligurian wind and stony sangiovese if ever there was, rounded by grapes that soften, including in their colour. A lovely drop at this age and perfectly present day drinking Annata. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted March 2022

Fattoria Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

stellina

Sold out already and truthfully a rbon copy, albeit lighter on its stellina feet, of the Pomona Vineyard Gran Selezione. In this se fruit comes from Sant’Ilario and Vigna del Termine vineyards. Here in Annata terms with readied, steadied and intuitive ease. Different and dual vineyard impart and more elastic movement than the GS but also the two vintages that me before. Crafty Classico, of a ring knowable in the idiosyncratic Pomona stability of style. A smaller vintage than 2019 to come but says Moni Raspi, “such is life.” Drink 2021-2026.? Tasted October 2021

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG Filetta Di Lamole 2018

Lamole

No one picks before October 10th in Lamole and Fontodi’s Filetta was the last. Always is, that’s the pecking order and Giovanni Manetti’s cousin who owns the vineyard goes back to 1045 in Chianti Classico, the oldest in recorded history. That Lamole perfume is unmistakable, with all the character of Lamole and the palate structure of a Fontodi wine. Bigger than most in Lamole and yet more graceful and ressing than those of the Con d’Oro. As complex and fine as Filetta n be, ushering in a new level of deeper understanding, resolution and completion for Manetti and Lamole. A harbinger for the great and symbiotic relationship between Lamole and the vintage, leaving an impression that says this is the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive place to be in 2018. Drink 2023-2031.? Tasted October 2021

Il Molino Di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Panzano

Great freshness in abundance and despite some critil vintage theory there is so much to find in a Panzano Annata like this from Il Molino di Grace. Piquancy and an open door policy, classicism for the UGA in an ideal snapshot and Chianti Classico profile. Memory rells the violet perfume and purity of fruit when tasting this 48 hours after it left the vine. Nothing has been lost or sacrificed to virtue or clarity in solo sangiovese that begs to be seen, heard and tasted. Will require less time than some vintages, to ready itself for piacevolezza e gustosità. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted October 2021

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Panzano

Le Cinciole’s 2018 benefits from two things: Less than heavy vintage result and one extra year in bottle to soften the Panzano-Galestro tannins notably present in this chalky wine. Red schisty-clay-limestone consistency, texture and presentation with high toned, lifted and red citrus behaviour. Quite a vintage snapshot mouthful in emotion but never heaviness. Still a bit oak dominant which should pass in another year or so. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted February 2022

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Panzano

Every time I taste a Le Fonti sangiovese there is instant recognition of Panzano but even more so the north and northeast oriented vineyards of Vicky and Guido’s fine, fine estate. This from ’18 is purely, expressly and unequivolly Le Fonti. Cooler, more linear, precise, focused and intentional than broader Panzano and surely a child of craft, the chase and chaos. Bravo Guido, brava Vicky, thank you for this honest act of Chianti Classico humility and humanity. Drink this every day.? Last tasted March 2022

In Vicky’s world “a very alcoholic year,” hot and dry but an expected extreme. me out at 15 per cent with great fruit to counteract and balance this out. Light chalkiness and long chains of tannins, full palate exposure and much pleasure to find. Picked between the 28th and 3rd of October so took all and full advantage of a late September Panzano 25-plus degree fluctuation of daytime heat spike to nighttime lowest lows Therefore not hard to know what to attribute the alcohol to, relating to evaporation, humidity or anything else that happens when grapes flash develop that late in the season. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted October 2021

Lornano Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

stellina

The year is 2022. The vintage of this Lornano Annata is 2018. Why is it in this glass and being assessed is anybody’s guess. “Sangiovese needs the bottle,” is said with a shrug and the simple utterance remains etched in mind forever. Nicolò Pozzoli said this five years ago, well before this wine was even a twinkle in his Lornano eye. The vinous, herbal essence and essential oils have yet to integrate. The tannins have to assimilate and the wine knows not yet where it will go. Or perhaps it does and has chosen to stay quiet, in slumber and protected. When it emerges there will be the same classic stellina cool and savoury sweetness as ever. The vintage will offer this gift of Lornano. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted March 2022

Nardi Viticoltori Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

stellina

Nardi’s 2018 is purely and confidently stellina sangiovese, richly glycerin, sweetly herbal and parochially viscous. This is stellina red fruit inrnate, crocnte, seamlessly woven with fine if understood acidity and gentle, equally getable tannins. An Annata meant for putting in your glass, anytime, anywhere.? Last tasted March 2022

Nardi in stellina in Chianti is found below Lilliano and Macìe covering an area of ??forty hectares of property. Ten are vineyards and the rest is divided between olive groves, various crops and the farm for breeding Chianina ttle and Cinta Senese pigs. The work of Angelo and Giacomo, sons of Enrico. Their striking ’18 Annata scintillant is 90 per cent sangiovese plus five each naiolo and colorino. It is truly Classico marl-Galestro stellina, bleeding cherry red fruit, acids that travel up and down the sides and then further serve to circulate the succulent and juicy fruit as it moves around the mouth. It’s the full sangiovese from a specific commune allowed to shine experience. Dictionary entry, spot on and satisfying. Drink 2021-2026.? Tasted January 2021

Podere paccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Radda

Winemaker Alyson Morgan uses only large format sk to age her Annata and like the previous 2017 this 2018 comes from an arid and very warm vintage though not quite as extreme. That ’17 is still so fresh and this ’18 is outrageously youthful, not closed but vinoso, cinnamon dusty and giving this feeling of sangiovese scorrevole. In other words it clings to but also slides as if tethered to the inside of the mouth. Acid level is still strong and yet supportive with thanks to how and when the grapes are chosen to be picked. If ’17 is chewy then ’18 brings the crunch, easy to say when you know that ’19 will fall harmoniously in between. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Podere stellinuzza Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Lamole

Lamole with an extra year’s settling is always a wonderful plan especially when executed with precision to a cumulative point of no return. stellinuzza’s Annata is at exactly that place and is that place, a perfumed frazione sangiovese of well-ripened and judged fruit, floral tones both under and over. Succulent and textured if just a bit green, not unusual and in fact concurrent, at least at times here and there, with the UGA’s way. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

San Donato in Poggio

Youngest vineyards are 15-20 years old so they are all able to defend themselves in dry or challenging vintages. An average year really and not all the grapes are picked to be bottled, making sure to always maintain quality. All the vineyards contribute to the Annata, even some from Vigna Le taste, the 1997 planted vineyard, two sides over two valleys, argiloso on north side and Galestro to the south. Mostly 500L tonneaux with new 28 hL botti installed two years ago. “Organic with biodynamic undertones.” All five wines smell so completely different. Up to 20 per cent are mixed endemic grapes, including 10 of ciliegiolo, plus naiolo, colorino and malvasia nera. Adds up to a multi-national and savoury blend, a parochial gathering that layers a true sense of place, dusty, plum peppery and a true sense of forest airs in this wine. Good weight, balance and length. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted November 2021

Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Panzano

Marinai’s Panzano is one of the richest, most fruit cumulate sangiovese of the UGA’s lot. From 2018 there is warmth, development, spice and Amaro viscosity. Viscidity too, rightfully tacky while also full of gems and precious metals. Such a Panzano delight, full and ropey, resistant to sheer forces and ready for the main course. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted March 2022

Tenuta senuove Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Panzano

Crunchy Panzano Annata here from Tenuta senuove, peppered as opposed to peppery, as if with freckles or micro-sized bits of earth. Plenty of salt and pepper seasoning but again nothing sharp or spicy about it and fruit so very berry red.? Last tasted March 2022

From the southwest corner of Greve in Chianti, southwest of Montefioralle and close to Panzano. Modish and modern for 21st century sangiovese is just this, stylish, chic and highly motivated. Quite fully developed and felt red fruit of glycerin, pectin and mouthfeel but you want more and more. Impressive magnitude in bringing so much fruit into the mix. Not overtly high in acid or tannin so use this early and often. Drink 2020-2022.? Tasted twice, February 2020

Val Delle Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Radda

Picked at the end of September and into the first week of October after a stretch of time from which humidity rose at night. There were some problems with mould and insects. And so the early picking (for Radda) lent finesse and Radda acidity for some of the Classico’s light and direct wines. Yet another moment of diversifition from UGA to UGA and vintage to vintage. This is not a massive sangiovese of alcohol and grosso attitude. This is exactly the opposite, while 10 minutes drive away in Panzano some wines are big and bullish, pushing and exceeding 15 per cent alcohol.? Last Tasted October 2021

Roberto Bianchi’s steep hillside slope is where he farms a quietly dramatic terroir to conjoin or congiungere with Radda’s many high elevation lolizzazione. These once not long ago too cool for ripening sangiovese vineyards are now the place to be and Bianchi takes full account, responsibility and risk to make the most of his new world Chianti Classico possibilities. Long macerations are often over 45 days, even longer for Riserva, though in this easy and lighter vintage perhaps not quite so long. Still there is a development of texture, glycerol and the finest tannins in his glistening sangiovese. The inespable Raddese acidity shines just as bright, rries the light and infuses the pure compound cherry genere with a hyper real sense of varietal and lotion. As they say, posizione è tutto. If Chianti Classico is the future, the man who might be dubbed double B has delivered an Annata già arrivato. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted September 2021

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

Vagliagli

Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico DOCG 2018

stellina

Here in the year of her majesty 2022 a look at the 2018 vintage for this Trasqua Annata is so early. And yet here it is in this glass and so here goes nothing. The stellina company knows its terroir and understands that sangiovese must take it slow, ease into grace and away from structural pain. Trasqua’s is like the curious se of stellina, born as an old soul then transversing through life into middle age, adulthood and finally youth. An inverse Classico relationship with time, crisp, crunchy and crusted now, so very tannic and four years away from settling into comfort. Drink 2025-2030.? Tasted March 2022

Chianti Classico DOCG (older vintages)

ntalici Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Gaiole

Sangiovese blended with 15 (merlot and bernet sauvignon) and the “international” one, less aggressive and pure than the varietal Baruffo. As Chianti Classico the character augmented by ssis, smoke and bell pepper changes the approach and then the result. Smooth, round and creamy while truth be told there is still a Gaiole sentiment running through. Drink 2022-2024.? Tasted February 2022

rpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG Dofana 2017

Vagliagli

The Dofana stone is sandy, more Arenaria then Macigno, with Alberese and clay. Faces southeast at 350m, planted to new clones of sangiovese, as opposed to Montaperto. All adds up to a sangiovese cru of musculature, great if slightly austere tannins, fleshier, cherries of deeper maceration and profound tang. All parts are raised, elevated, punchy and there is an intensity that really makes one think and feel. The vineyard was acquired in 2004, now at the point of Gioia Cresti having come to really understand the make-up, to claim the future of the wine, for what is going to happen. The classicism of needing to give sangiovese time is entrenched into Dofana, around which “the corners in this wine are personality,” tells Filippo Cresti. A wine to watch what happens with 12 bottles over the years. Even 30 years. Dofana’s tannins are that tight and compacted, even from arid 2017. Drink 2025-2037.? Tasted November 2021

rpineta Fontalpino Chianti Classico DOCG Montaperto 2017

Vagliagli

A grey to light yellow lreous plot, mainly Alberese facing northeast at 420m. Even in 2017 it will not get much more elemental and linear, balanced, fresh and the definition of an elegant cru-designate Chianti Classico. The oldest vines are 40 years and the vineyard is re-planted in stages, slowly, Bordeaux style. All sangiovese, remarkably bright, getable and cool. Hard to find more of this ilk from the aridity that 2017 gave to the territory’s vines. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted November 2021

Le Fonti Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Panzano

More or less picked at the same time as 2018 (18th to 28th of September), give or take a few days and while the alcohol is felt more than in 2018 there is also a dry extract elevation and less grip as a consequence. More peppery spice and wood sensation, here in an Annata of tightly wound impression. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted October 2021

Podere paccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Radda

Only sees Grandi Botti, allowing the wine to breathe and expresses the appellation’s purest form. Has kept its fruit and energy without a moment of change since last tasted 25 months ago. Seriously no evolution, acting fresh as the day it was first popped. Represents top structure in Annata.? Last tasted March 2022

Things turn brighter in a sangiovese like this from Radda, not so much lighter as one from which fruit n shine. Light in terms of tannin but sneaky enough to elevate and extend. More chew than crunch in a pressed fruit roll-up rnival of the heart ’17. Drink 2020-2024.? Tasted February 2020

Villa Di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2017

Vagliagli

Spiced to the hilt which is neither shock nor surprise from a pair of stelnuovo brothers and their newly minted Vagliagli UGA. Men who allows allow and encourage their terroir to speak in clarity, regardless of vintage and no matter the circumstance. Warm and luxe, deep and profound, an exegesis of structure delivered by grapes of lol, traditional and serious concern.? Last tasted February 2022

Truth be told this 2017 from Geggiano persists as a youthful and too early to ll Annata. The particular Galestro and Alberese in these micro-climate championed western wing of stelnuovo vineyards make for some of the communes’ most charming meets structured sangiovese. Why should the heat and the challenge effect anything otherwise. So much here, so many levels of Chianti Classico to unfurl. Drink 2022-2030.? Tasted February 2020

Il Palagio Di Panzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

Panzano

Includes fruit from the San Martino Vineyard, composed of Galestro, rich in iron, morphologilly very different to the soils around the winery. Spends 12 months in large format sks, followed by 12 months in bottle. As an Annata Palagio’s is released late, certainly as compared to most in the territory. Still firm with notable tannins and yet to be resolved structural elements. There is a dryness on the upper palate, a se of clones and soils, still a closed door to the grace and possibility of this wine. There are grapes coming from the oldest (late 1980s planting) part of the vineyard and beginning in 2017 these grapes will all move to the old vines Rosato. This will mark a profound change in not only style but accessibility, especially for the Annata.? Last tasted October 2021

Upon further consideration, thoughts drill down and clarity comes into more micro view, six months after last tasting and 14 months after first tasting PdP’s 2016. It took some time but now the perfume is pure Panzano and in this se, right at the heart of the village. The essence of a northeastern corner of Con d’Oro sweet savour, a purity and a concentration of sangiovese that rries the culture and tradition of its fruit, safely and securely. The tannins here are sneaky, creeping in, aiding and abetting, for longevity. This should become one of the longer lived Annata of the vintage.? Last tasted November 2020

Only sangiovese as is the plan for the entire estate. That Panzano perfume and glycerin though there is some more weight and bones than others. Reminds of the style that’s constant from Fontodi to be honest. These are some of Chianti Classico’s finest acids, sweet and refined, They compliment and support. Drink 2021-2027.? Tasted September 2019 and May 2020

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

Gaiole

For Lu 2016 is a true sangiovese vintage, equanimous from start to vintage and one from which the terroir and territory take control of the grape. Indeed this is Chianti in ideal if not the purest perfection of Classico form, deeply transparent and matched by an honest to greatness inner mineral wave in full command. There is a sense of blood orange but also red currant and ripe cherry. A classic year in which the ample but amenable tannins allow for early access but also plenty of time ahead. Drink 2022-2032.? Tasted February 2022

I Fabbri Olinto Chianti Classico DOCG 2014

Lamole

Even back in 2018 ands 2019 there was already something intuited for the beautiful, ulterior and even ethereal if much maligned 2014s and more than anything a sense of wonder to see how well they could age. Now in 2022 enough time has passed to take deeper judgement and if I Fabbri’s Olinto is any indition then the vintage will deliver many quality wines for many more years to come. The Lamole perfume is front, open, lifted and centre. The sangiovese has only moved forward to a place where the classicism of Greve’s amphitheatric frazione stands right before us. Susanna Grassi has done it again, as she always does, filling her wines with realism and grace. This Olinto is in a really great place. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted February 2022

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2013

Gaiole

San Giusto A Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2012

Gaiole

At the outset there is some animale, a cooked rabbit per se, a smaller animal, not bovine or porcine. such a curious and complex aromatic swell. In the vintage a big rain arrived at the beginning of September but not all of the vineyards were able to recuperate from the long dry spell and as such the tannins are a bit dry. That said they are settling now and it has taken this much time to get to this point. The fruit shines, the wine is just now in its window and while hydric stress clearly played a role there is much to gain at this time. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted November 2021

ntalici Chianti Classico DOCG Baruffo 2011

A blend of sangiovese and naiolo, acid and pH in cohorts for a Lamole of true timeless terroir and of a time when the naked transparency of the frazione could never be denied. Not that hiding Lamole in 2022 is a thing but the linearity, stark reality and absolute transparency of the day is on full display from Susanna Grassi’s 2010. That and the barrel she would have augmented Terra di Lamole with to create a kind of Selezione for the time. Now in the waning stages with thanks to a warm vintage when such a thing was not the average or contiguous norm. Drink 2022-2023.? Tasted February 2022

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2010

Greve

Immediate waft of frutta di bosco from what was Manfred Ing’s first vintage at Querciabella, having arrived on the 3rd of May. An auspicious start beuse it rained the entire month. The heat never me and even in retrospect the team will say it was the worst vintage ever. Guido di Santi was in charge of winemaking (and in a way still is). The season continued despite the rains and lingered well into the fall. Was also the year new cement tanks and wood vats arrived for fermentation, plus the inaugural one as a 100 per cent sangiovese. Only four months into his tenure Ing urged the team to wait longer before picking. The fact is that’s all sangiovese needed and usually needs. Time. So now 11 years forward the cured salumi style of Chianti Classico is just what this is pleased to be. A vanishing point of previous stylistic expression for a future that began with the advent of a new unfolding story. Not much fruit to talk about but plenty of Ruffoli and gastronomic pleasure in many ways. Well matched to Fuoripiazza Ristorante Enote in Greve. Drink 2021-2024.? Tasted November 2021

Conti pponi/Villa lcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Montefioralle

The Lamole label is a different animal than the Olinto when it comes to a retrospective look side by side with the Olinto 2009. More wood, evolution and secondary bleeding into tertiary character but most of all this cinghiale-animale note that n’t be denied. Earthy and hematic, a tale of brush, porcini and the sauce reduced after slow cooking the shoulder, hours later and complex. Lamole herbal, perfumed and fine. Past prime but a window into the recent past. Drink 2022-2023.? Tasted February 2022

A vintage from which the tannins seemed very hard and needed a long time to improve. Actually shocked at how this has yet to truly evolve, with almost no oxidation or dried components. No frutta secco or bosco but yes glycol and Amaro. Silken and mineral, as Lu’s sangiovese (with varying percentages of naiolo and colorino always are). Will still drink beautifully for six to 10 years further. Drink 2022-2028. Tasted February 2022

Conti pponi/Villa lcinaia Chianti Classico 1975

Montefioralle

Tasted as part of “Il Chianti Classico in 9 Dedi” led by Filippo Bartolotta with Giovanni Manetti at Stazione Leopolda in Florence at the Chianti Classico Collection. T. A matter of clay and limestone and in lcinaia’s vineyard the type of stone is Colombino, not rare but highly specific to certain Chianti Classico vineyards. Looking past the T there is a wild strawberry sense of fruit that while stymied and suppressed there is a persistence and longevity in this forty-seven year old wine. Truly sangiovese with mineral scents and an unkempt wildness about its disposition.? Tasted March 2022

Barone Risoli stello Di Brolio Chianti Classico 1949

Gaiole

Tasted as part of “Il Chianti Classico in 9 Dedi” led by Filippo Bartolotta with Giovanni Manetti at Stazione Leopolda in Florence at the Chianti Classico Collection. The oldest wine in the flight. apropos and just when you consider the Risoli heritage and lineage. A mineral layering which instinctively mimics the compaction of argiloso, macigno and lri from Brolio’s soils, no longer feeling the separation or mille-feuille effect but now just all morphed into one and the same. There were surely some white wines in this mix, as per the formula written dedes earlier by Bettino Risoli. Probably helped keep the freshness for some time and while this is now all earth and stone the wine is very much alive. There’s even some sweetness and citrus showing, inditive of blood orange some 73 years later, finishing with a trebbiano and malvasia Vinsanto tang.? Tasted March 2022

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

stellina

My or should I say man is Bibbiano’s Riserva’s ’19 the most naturally sweet sensation of stellina fruit that Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi? has ever produced. A well of sangiovese liqueur and liquidity of seasonings, fine spices, Mediterranean and even a bit exotique. I imagine he is most proud of this wine, traditionally Riserva but so above ground, out there and pable of running with his single-vineyard, one side of the estate or other, Gran Selezione wines. Drink 2023-2029.? Tasted March 2022

Buondonno Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG savecchia Alla Piazza 2019

stellina

Hard not to appreciate the double entendre in Gabriele Buondonno’s wines, at once big and boisterous with well developed alcohol but then high elevation salty, airy and expansive. They are what they are what they need to be, from his place in stellina, nearly Panzano in temperament, substantiality and fully equipped with measure. The ’19 is a bit more than tannic so let it rest another couple of years. Drink 2024-2029.? Tasted March 2022

stello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Radda

stello di Albola’s Radda at elevation Riserva is quite tight and compact, especially this early in its assessment. Clearly a wine of Galestro with plenty of lri influence, glycol liquidity and just that classic sense of regional liqueur. Quite viscous and generous, tart at this stage with a hint of balsami. Will settle in and drink with Riserva pride. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

stello Di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Montebuoni 2019

Gaiole

“Direct descendant of stello di Ama Riserva in a return to the appellation with this being the second such vintage. Falling somewhere between the Ama Annata and San Lorenzo Gran Selezione, Ama’s Montebuomi is so very lri, regardless of the level of appellation, intensely woven, idealized and structured. Such mineral virtuosity at the Riserva level ptured however, linear, vertil and compact. A compression exists by dint of those vineyard soils and also the living and breathing Gaiole terroir. Drying for now, fleshing to come, settling in later. Drink 2024-2029.? Tasted March 2022.

stello Di Volpaia Chianti lassico Riserva DOCG 2019

Radda

Tank sample but a finished wine. Phenomenal poly-phenolics and sensory gifting from a sangiovese 100 per cent in delivery of the Volpaia sweetness of fruit, cool sensibility, silky texture and equally tactile tannins. If a hole or an unresolved moment exists it would be impossible to unearth and in some ways, at this stage, Riserva is almost readier than Annata. But that shouldn’t really be possible with the grapes coming from the same vineyard, here in the upper part. The winemaking is exceptional and the vineyard’s voice is perfectly heard. Drink 2023-2029.? Tasted October 2021

Fèlsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

stelnuovo Berardenga

A bright, lightning red fruit and herbal oil Rancia Riserva here in ’19, working through pine and cedar, rosemary, sage and elderberry, fennel too. All the resins are here in their youth, circulating and formulating an exit strategy. At this point the fruit, sweet as it is, is wrapped up in the bramble, impossible to reach without getting bitten by the thorny tannins of this wine. Just wait, and wait some more beuse there is so much happening and still to come. Drink 2024-2032.? Tasted March 2022

Gagliole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Panzano

Nothing scents like a Gagliole and nowhere in stellina does this sense of fruit compaction, timed and tidy acidity and then fineness of sweet, evolved and intelligent tannins co-exist. Herbal yet delitely so, dripping and oozing of terroir, spice infiltrate of every zone, pocket and pore. Not sure there n be relled a Riserva with this much personality and oomph but here it is in all glory. Also not sure there has been an example that needs as much aging time as this generously structure ’19. Don’t touch and return five years forward. Drink 2026-2033.? Tasted March 2022

Le Miccine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Gaiole

Le Miccine 2019 is intrinsilly Gaiole but also very personal. It feels like and comes with a sensation you will intuit whether or not you taste this wine alongside winemaker (and Québecoise) Paula Cook, or not. What amazing and exceptional fruit from ’19, building and building, fleshing and fleshing in a most beautiful glass of sangiovese Riserva wine. And you n access sooner than many, as you wish. Grande Paula. Veramente. Drink 2023-2029.? Tasted March 2022

L’Erta Di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Radda

Also a mpione da botte, sk sample of 100 per cent sangiovese from a cru, of a very specific terrain. A parcel of Galestro and Alberese on a hillside though here a red earth and where two specific clones of sangiovese are grown. F9 and R4 to be specific, both producing very small bunches. So reminds of Montalcino’s Lorenzo Magnelli and Le Chiuse, in methodology and also result for which an intensely fine acidity defines and directs but here a Raddese variety to which there is no compare. Hard to find Chianti Classico sangiovese more profumato that does not come from Lamole and perhaps its a matter of the in-land, off-shore breezes that blow here and through this vineyard lled La sina. Another sk sample that is so expressive and so close to being ready, in fact they are drawn from their final resting vessel just waiting to be bottled. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted March 2022

Luiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

San sciano

Luiano’s tannins are variegated in 2019, specific to Alessandro Palombo’s San sciano terroir, layering sweet, tart, savoury, salty, verdant and even umami notability. The fact that fruit is at the top of the lol pyramid and spectrum will ensure a long and slow integration, without angst or difficulty. There will be no stops and starts but only forward movement and development. The overall succulence and incremental oscillations between acid and tannin confirm the plan. Drink 2024-2030.? Tasted March 2022

Riecine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2019

Gaiole

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Ambrogio E Giovanni Folonari Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Nozzole 2018

Greve

From Greve in Chianti and a representative sangiovese not just for commune but also for the appellation. Truly Riserva in pture, rich and luxurious, fully complete in texture and for mouthfeel, concentrated and strong. rries an estate and greater authority credibility in consistency throughout the years and were you to close your eyes you could guess 1998, 2008 and then 2018. Actually big for the vintage which indites a late September pick inclusive of a hot spell during which nighttime temperatures did well to preserve acidity. Listed at 14 per cent though feels higher. Drink 2022-2026.? Tasted November 2021

Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

stellina

Next step, level and terraced sangiovese appreciation comes from Bibbiano’s Riserva, a wine of high tones, lightning fruit along with well versed and rehearsed Riserva lines. Linear that is, vertil and promising, not a promiscuous sangiovese but one that considers its time, place and future with profound regard. Juicy to be sure and also grippy for to see seven years forward and a softer time arranged. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted February 2022

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva lidonia DOCG 2018

Vagliagli

lidonia is surely the more structured of the Bindi Sergardi Riservas, weighted in fruit, lifted by the succulence of Alberese drawn acidity and showing what this Mocenni sector of Vagliagli is pable of demonstrating. The 2018 is Bindi Sergardi’s Riserva of fortitude, not just in opposition to brothers and sisters but also as compared to several recent vintages. It requires time and will live for 10 years or more.? Last tasted March 2022

lidonia’s is like I Colli’s power though not in strength but rather in depth. Immense depth, a gathering of all the vineyard’s stone mineral wealth, of Alberese, Galestro and Macigno at the confluence of Mocenni’s amphitheatric crossroads, with Radda and stellina so near by. The beauty of fruit and exquisiteness of tannins are so evident, no matter how youthful this wine may be and so the future exists in a manner quite the matter of already knowable guarantee. Drink 2023-2029.? Tasted October 2021

Bindi Sergardi I Colli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Vagliagli

A solo I Colli Estate Riserva, from vineyards in the UGA zone of Vagliagli at the western edge of stelnuovo Berardenga commune. The vines are planted 10 kilometres away from Bindi Sergardi’s Mocenni Estate and like the home vineyard counterpart this mimics if extends from Annata but with elevated acidity and also power. This bottle could not have been in Ontario more than a week or so and so it seems a bit closed, unwilling and perhaps in a minor state of shock. The previous one tasted at the winery took off where Annata left off but truthfully Riserva is higher in acidity and power but without hitting one hard, more about strength of character. Once again the sweet flowers as in Annata but of course . Drink 2021-2024. Tasted October 2021.Never the matter beuse Vagliagli’s florals, sweet scented and ndied fruit, high tonality and grippy sub-structure are all locked in tight. ptures the late September pick but just before alcohol levels would have risen, here for a harmonious and graceful turn of Riserva phrasing. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted October and November 2021

Brania Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Radda

Brania’s munificent and substantial ’18 Riserva grabs texture by the scruff of its neck and introduces it to that fruit which n only be described as ripe. Hard to rell recent vintages that do Radda this way, with grip, strength and power. Dark orange to red orange fruit, more blood than naturally orange, big, bouncy and intense. A notably heeded and competitve Raddese wine at the present moment pable of becoming a beautifully attractive Brania before too long. Drink 2023-2028.? Tasted March 2022

rpineto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Greve

Classic, distinct and ideal as rpineto’s Greve Classico, full of brush and lol flora, from wild fennel through rosemary and into sage all over the palate. And then the textural composition sets in, running the sangiovese sap of ointment and viscosity through and through the body corporeal of rpineto’s Riserva wine. This is neither thick nor jammy, shows the land with idealism and while drying at the back end there is plenty of stretched and elastic stuffing to see this age five-plus years. Drink 2023-2027. Tasted February 2022

sa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Vignalparco 2018

San Donato in Poggio

Expectation dictates that a sa Emma Riserva will deliver true and substantial San Donato in Poggio fruit but double what the Annata chooses to give. That is exactly the point in the ’18 Vignalparco, a blood orange smoothie with minerals running straight on through. Taut, tart, intense, fulsome and ranging in so many ways. Impressive ’18 to be sure. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted March 2022

stagnoli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Terrazze 2018

stellina

To be honest Terrazze is not like stagnoli’s Annata, if not beuse of appellative level then surely a matter of vintage. Riserva is deep, brooding and profound, a sangiovese of acid intensity and fruit compression. More dried and leathery than fresh with plenty of wood spice but also that which is derived from the fruit source, namely the skins themselves. No lack of imagination, drive nor trenchant desire neither. Hard to know exactly where this will go. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted February 2022

stelli Del Grevepesa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Clemente VII 2018

San sciano

A 100 per cent San sciano in Val di Pesa sangiovese from schists and limestone, mainly Galestro at 250-350m. Sees 24 months in Slavonian oak and French barriques. A Riserva of concentration and notably healthy pH for sapid texture mixed with dark fruit. Picked late into October so thereby gainful of a mini late September heat wave and converse diurnal nighttime temperature dips for healthy ripeness well foiled by sweetly kept acidity. Moments of verdancy in between swaths of sapid texture and dark chocolate make for a Riserva of diversity and variegation of an overall expression true to San sciano and also vintage. Drink 2022-2025.? Tasted December 2021

stello Della Paneretta Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

San Donato in Poggio

As with the upcoming thorough and thoughtful 2019 Annata there is a next level depth of craft and understanding intuited by way of Riserva 2018. The fruit seems so well timed, picked late in the season, developed and yet braced in the moment, frozen in time. Feels cured and dried by cellar air, the vintage ptured and preserved. This will live a long life, that much is sure and always drink up on the ridge, with the image of San Donato in Poggio demure in the distance. Drink 2024-2029.? Tasted February 2022

stello Di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Radda

Great fruit Scott or rather great Scott what fruit! Here Albola ptures 2018 in Riserva form with great, sheer and utter distinction. Hyperbole of red tree fruit, chew like liquorice and bokser too. Well positioned, proportioned and perfectly suited to all. A five year wine if ever there was.? Last tasted February 2022

The ’18 Riserva continues a thread of Radda-Classico consistency for Albola, stringing great wines from 2015 on through. This next Riserva shows excellent linearity and quality, namely at the hands of fine tannins, ripe and thriving, adding pulse and drive to already buzzing acidity. The fruit is well equipped to hang, participate, contribute and collaborate. Warming at the finish suggest spice and an Albola ability to age. Drink 2022-2027.? Tasted October 2021

stello Di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

stelnuovo Berardenga

Youthful, high-toned, crisp and crunchy Riserva 2018 here from Bossi. Big Berardenga bones, Classico stello vibes. pomegranate and currants on high alert. Hematic as well, herbal to a degree and full of wood-fruit-acid swirls. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted March 2022

stello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

San sciano

Kind of surprised at how apposite this next bottle is showing. Young and nearly untouchable. not the accessible and easy drinking Gabbiano of last month’s bottle and recent vintages past, here dripping with tonics and concentrated fruit essence tinctures. More herbs too, a swell of minerality and wave after wave of acid-tannin breakers. Wait two years.? Last tasted March 2022

Sweet fruit and acids are compelling together in their Galestro-infused succulence and style. Here a Riserva of easy attitude and gratitude, well stretched and showing off the understated Cerelli style. Riserva of humility and humanity, cool and gelid, fine and harmonious. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted February 2022

stello Di Meleto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Gaiole

So informative to taste Meleto’s Riserva sandwiched between their Annata and Grand Selezione but also as 2018 between ’19 and ‘17. As if on cue Riserva acts, exacts and reacts right up the middle of that Gaiole road, equally rich and parochial, accessible and yet pable of aging, progressing and emerging with potpourri fully ptured and kept. Riserva is a perfect compromise and offers the best of both worlds. Drink 2023-2027.? Tasted February 2022

stello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

San Donato in Poggio

A “thanks God cooler vintage” tells Laura Bianchi with an appreciative smile, in which not only the wines but also the San Donato in Poggio vines were able to re-balance. Laura believes it’s not only a vintage of great freshness and acidity but also one that n age well. Classic Monsanto grip as well, though style, flavour and sophistition of ripeness, plus an energy inherent as a factor of brightness and vitality. A great edutive study involving a sangiovese of both inndescence and longevity, two things seemingly apposite but binary by definition. Knowing what Bianchi’s Monsanto n do there is no question about the possibilities that lay ahead. Drink 2022-2029.? Tasted October 2021 and February 2022

stello Di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Greve

Something about Greve’s Dudda Valley brings a distinct and higher level of aromatic concentration to sangiovese, especially in Chianti Classico Riserva form. This from 2018 is one of the the lighter, effusive and more lyril ones with so much emanation of perfume. Still a savoury character with knowable rattle, tone and hum. Plenty of desire and hope with a good six to eight year run ahead, making this a perfect little mid-term cellar dweller at an attractive price. Drink 2023-2028.? Tasted January 2022

stello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Agostino Petri 2018

Greve

Everything about the Matta family’s 2018 Riserva screams late picked fruit in early October. After the late September day heat and nighttime lows, there’s just so much of all parts set to full in this wine. Wild and exotic perfume, fruit fleshy and so bloody ripe, body more muscular than this Riserva sometimes shows and alcohol well-developed. All are in synch, balance and complimentary condition. Crazy delicious Agostino Petri this time around with classic values and traditional character kept in a true Greve style. Drink 2023-2026.? Tasted January 2022

Conti pponi/Villa lcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Montefioralle

Not all Riserva are created equal and if nothing else Sebastiano pponi’s could only be his from Montefioralle at lcinaia. Not exactly sweet natural fruit endowed but surely herbal and the kind of Riserva that takes stock of your senses, sticks to your tongue, leaving behind an impression that will not dissipate. Even if you never take a second sip you are left with a Greve left bank, over the hills and far away into Montefioralle impression. “Maybe more than enough.” Nearly fulsome and yet wound quite tight, tannins not so much drying as compounding by land and zeppelin temper for a ride off into the proverbial sunset. Get the led out with this one. Drink 2024-2029.? Tasted February 2022

Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Novecento 2018

Vagliagli

Dievole is loted within the newly minted Chianti Classico UGA Vagliagli and is in fact situated as close to the village as just about any estate. Clay, marlstone and limestone in Alberese soil holds the fort for a 95 per cent sangiovese with small amounts of equally endemic naiolo and colorino. Spends time in no toast 41 hL French sks for upwards of 18 months and in bottle for the remaining six. Hard to match the depth of the great Novecento ’16 but this 2018 is no small Riserva. It is pure Vagliagli of a specific fruit and acid sweetness with breadth, girth and structure. Drink 2024-2028.? Tasted February 2022

Fattoria Della Aiola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018

Vagliagli

Far more aromatic output as compared to the Annata but also less reduction from a Riserva that spends 24 months in